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Granbazan Ambar 2023
DOZEN: $594.00 or $49.50 each
Etiqueta Ambar uses grapes from vineyards that are over 40 years' old, mostly in Cambados and Meao in the Salnas Valley on sand and granite soils. Almost Riesling like in terms of structure and acidity (Diego Rios worked in the Mosel Valley) this is stony and intense,with layers of lime cordial, green apple and lemon zest and impressive extract. 2024-29. TIM ATKIN MW
The 2023 Albariño Granbazán Etiqueta Ámbar, sourced from Val do Salnés, undergoes a few hours of skin contact before fermenting and aging eight months on lees. Yellow in color, it presents aromas of white peach, orange blossom and candied citrus. The palate is dry, light and delicately fresh with a slight spritz adding texture. The contrast between the lush nose and the lean palate is intriguing and flavorful. JOAQUIN HIDALGO, Vinous.com
Full bottle 1,245 g. Tasted blind and then tasted again (not blind) several times over several days. Certified sustainable (Fair’N Green). Several months on fine lees.
Delicate and pretty, going from fennel flowers to lemon verbena to lemongrass to lemon sherbet. Gentle but surprisingly deep plashy pools of acidity. Orange citrus and tamarind at the core, that over 10 days softened to buttery saffron. Like all the really good, complex Albariños, it has high-frequency intensity. It feels as if its heart has been hand-drawn with a soft graphite pencil. After being open for days, it just finished on peaches and apricots, as if giving up pretending to be about anything else. JANCIS ROBINSON