Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Haut Doix 2022

Nic used 50% whole bunch here. He owns half the entire Cru, the other half, I believe, is sold to a negotiant and a tiny amount is purchased by Lucien Le Moine. So, if you haven’t heard of it there is no wonder. The Cru, as you can see on the map, is essentially a continuation of Amoureuses, so much so that one half kind of warps in to that hallowed vineyard. The wines are very similar too, highly mineral, clearly delineated with abundant freshness and vivacity but also a gorgeous, if somewhat reserved, sumptuous swirl of darker berry notes. So pure, pretty and seductive. Needs time. Gorgeous. ROSCOE

Nicolas Groffier describes his hectare of Haut Doix as 'very luminous but not very warm'; he notes that they picked early here in 2022 (27 August) and brought the grapes in at 13% potential alcohol; they were fermented as 50% whole clusters and are ageing in cask (one-third new). His precautions resulted in a perfumed and elegant wine with ripe mulberry and pomegranate fruit, floral notes, and a lush sweetness on the palate that is very attractive. (95) DECANTER

35% new wood, 50% whole bunch. The first to be picked reflecting the sandy soil here. A fresh vivid purple. Fresh white pepper on the nose. There is a herbaceous touch which I must say I really rather like but will not be for everyone. Mixed ripeness perhaps is what gives a sense of complexity. A long keeper for Nicolas. Some firmer elements rather than a softer rounder version. JASPER MORRIS MW