Domaine des Lambrays Clos Des Lambrays 2022

A beguiling first nose: balance, poise, gentle intensity, and exhilarating fruit purity, with black raspberry, light licorice, and the first hints of floral, sweet herbal, and spice notes. Very gentle, graceful, silken entry—what Jacques aptly describes as a “caress”—with great layered density as it gradually expands in the mouth but also superb refinement of very fine-grain tannin, a gentle squeeze, finely supportive, succulent throughout, with a fruit ripeness that comes across almost as a sucrosity on the mid-palate, and a gentle glowing warmth on the finish. This was already purring with promise. (98-99) NEIL BECKETT

Retasted at Jacques’s official launch of the wine at Claridge’s Hotel in London on March 12, 2024
…this was still beautifully transparent but even more expressive and vivid, with more of the aromatic nuances starting to show, which revealed more clearly how harmoniously and seamlessly they weave together. There are no negative telltale signs of the 80% whole-bunch fermentation, the stems as invisible per se as Jacques always hoped. The depth of the layering and the grandeur of the scale were also clearer four months on, leaving no doubt that it has the structure to age for decades, but as the tannins gradually melt and soften rather than tighten and the final impression is of great fragrant persistence, there is equally no doubt that the aging will be graceful and all the defining characteristics crystal-clear at full maturity. (98–99) NEIL BECKETT

Collectors searching for the top wines of the Côte de Nuits will want to secure an allocation of this as soon as it is offered. The assemblage of all of the portions of the Clos is superb, with a seductive black cherry and mulberry fruit that is at once fresh and round, with complexity coming from mineral and earth notes and a bit of polished oak spice. The texture is dense and complete yet marvellously vibrant with impressive length. The selection is ever more severe, with even more grapes declassified into Les Loups, delivering a compelling wine that will live for decades. (97) CHARLES CURTIS MW

The 2022 Clos des Lambrays contains 80% whole bunches (100% in the very old vines, a lower proportion elsewhere). A fine even deep ruby purple. The bouquet is backward with still a suggested intensity of fruit that can easily cope with the stems. Beautifully suave with an enveloping dark red fruit, a very graceful finish on silky, refined tannins, and we don’t often say silky for Morey St Denis. They are caressing, according to Jacques. The floral touch works throughout, beautifully long and sensual. (96-98) JASPER MORRIS MW