Quintodecimo Giallo d'Arles Greco di Tufo DOCG 2023

Youthfully coy, the 2023 Giallo D'Arles opens with a delicately floral blend of young peaches, pears and hints of confectionary spice. This is silky-smooth yet lifted in feel, with a savory mix of white pit fruits and inner herbal tones that soothe the senses. It leaves a mineral tinge and a twang of sour lime, tapering off dramatically long with a bump of brisk acidity that lights up the palate. ERIC GUIDO

Bright yellow. Very intense, concentrated and complex aromas and flavours of tropical yellow fruit, ginger, crystallized lime, minerals, sexy spices and menthol. Rich, layered and dense in the mouth, but with vibrant acidity providing excellent clarity and cut. The finish is long and rich, leaving a noble mouthcoating sensation behind. A single-vineyard wine that is partly barrel-fermented but is not at all oaky, it is an archetypal Greco di Tufo that ought to be mandatory drinking for any self-respecting sommelier and aspiring wine course graduate. It highlights like few other Greco di Tufo wines what both the grape variety and the wine are all about. Greco gives wines that are quite red wine-like, with noteworthy tannic heft [the Greco variety is a rare tannic white grape: The wine's name, "giallo d'Arles" is a reference to one of van Gogh's favourite colours, a deep yellow that hints at a red colouration (how appropriate with Greco!)]. Drinking window: 2027-2032. IAN D'AGATA

Bright, radiant golden yellow in colour. The aromas of this crus float weightlessly in the air and range from ripe banana, peach and marzipan to Amalfi lemons and quinces. The palate is creamy and surprisingly tannic for a white wine, with firm, crisp acidity and terrific complexity. Layer by layer, the components of this characterful white wine unfold into a refined potpourri that impressively demonstrates Luigi Moro's great class. A Greco di Tufo with huge ageing potential and, for us, like something from another planet. LUCA GARDINI, superiore.de