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WHITE WINE - 2017

WHITE WINE
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  1. Carbonnieux Blanc 2017
    Carbonnieux Blanc 2017

    The 2017 Carbonnieux Blanc is absolutely lovely. Lemon confit, white flowers and green orchard fruit open up first, followed by a range of bright citrus and floral notes that add brilliance to a very pretty upper register. ANTONIO GALLONI

    …This is one of the most sophisticated white Carbonnieux that I have encountered at this stage with wonderful mineralité and veins of ginger furnishing the finish that convey brio and confidence. This should evolve into an outstanding Pessac-Léognan. NEAL MARTIN, vinous.com

    Right off the bat this has richness and concentration, with peachy creaminess through the mid-palate but without sacrificing tension and lift. It's a fine example of what 2017 can deliver in the best whites, and should age very well. JANE ANSON, decanter.com

    Notes of lemon curd, citrus rind and hints of crushed rock define the 2017 Château Carbonnieux, which is medium-bodied, pure, and elegant on the palate. It's another great white from the Pessac-Léognan region in 2017. JEB DUNNUCK

    2017
    Sem/Sauv Blend
    France
    356
  2. Idlewild The Bee Flora and Fauna White Wine 2017
    Idlewild The Bee Flora and Fauna White Wine 2017

    Proprietor Sam Bilbro has spent virtually a lifetime around wine. His family owns Marietta, while brothers Jake and Scot are behind the reborn Limerick Lane. At Idlewild, Sam Bilbro focuses on Italian and other less well-known varieties. In addition to these wines, I also tasted the, Arneis Fox Hill Vineyard, Vin Gris Dry Creek Valley and Grenache Gris Gibson Ranch. The best wines in this range are compelling, and point to a bright future. ANTONIO GALLONI, www.vinousmedia.com

    Having had a relationship with the Bilbro family as importers of the Marietta wines some years ago we were delighted to find youngest son, Sam, was behind this new venture, Idlewild. In many ways the wines are the anitpathy of what so many believe Californian wines are supposed to be. Hunting out heritage stands of Italian and Rhone varietals (mostly in Mendocino County) Bilbro makes extremely interesting wines characterised by texture, savouriness and subtlety. Skin contact is a part of the wines as is a relatively non-interventionist approach; both indicative of the preferences of the younger brigade of Calfornia producers. PWS

    The 2017 White The Bee Flora & Fauna, is a classy, polished wine to drink now and over the next few years. Green pear, mint, white flowers and light tropical overtones all grace this very pretty, expressive wine. The Muscat in particular adds an attractive aromatic flair. ANTONIO GALLONI

    2017
    Arneis, Cortese, Muscat
    USA
    362
  3. M. Ant De La Riva 'La Riva' Palomino de Pasto pagos Marcharnudos 2017
    M. Ant De La Riva 'La Riva' Palomino de Pasto pagos Marcharnudos 2017

    M. Antonio de la Riva (by Willy Peréz and Ramiro Ibañez)
    Manuel Antonio de la Riva founded his Jerez bodega in 1858. Located on the famous Arcos Street in Jerez, La Riva enjoyed great success with wines sourced from Manuel's vineyards in Pago Marcharnudo. More than a century later (after Manuel's death), it was bought by Domecq, who added La Riva to some of their best wines. With the decline and devaluation of Jerez after the 1960s, Domecq slowly began eliminating brands and La Riva ceased to exist; the brand names were sold to Beam International.

    Before the end of La Riva, young winemaker Luis Pérez (who later founded Bodegas Luis Pérez) had started working as a winemaker in several of the Domecq subsidiaries: Blázquez, Florido, Hermanos y Sancho and … La Riva! Luis learned the vineyards, practices and wines of the La Riva brands just before they were deleted. With the historical knowledge of Luis to guide them, next generation winemakers Willy Pérez (son of Luis) and Ramiro Ibáñez decided to recuperate the brand and its historical wines before they became entirely forgotten. Willy and Ramiro bought back the rights to the La Riva brands in 2017, and have since negotiated access to some of the famous plots from which they were sourced (and which had since become anonymous fruit sources for un-aspirational Sherries), in Balbaina Alta, and particularly Macharnudo.

    M.ANTONIO de la RIVA Macharnudo Palomino de Flor con asoleado

    La Riva Macharnudo Blanco recuperates a great wine based in the 'el Majuelo' vineyard (specifically in the tiny sub-vineyard parcela, el notario) within Pago Macharnudo[1]; a historical wine of el Marco de Jerez which disappeared under Domecq in the 1980s. 'El Notario' faces north (just under el Castillo de Majuelo, a castle crowning the pago) at 115m altitude, 18km in from the Atlantic, in a mixed poniente-levante setting. The soils are Tosca cerrada and barajuelas with a high level of diatomaceous fossils promoting great freshness. The fruit (Palomino 84) is hand-picked, with individual bunches selected in repeated passes over 2 months, which gain a degree or so of alcohol from an 8 hour soleo. It's then whole bunch pressed (only half the juice is taken). An ambient spontaneous fermentation in 600l  bota precedes 20 months ageing under a film of flor. 1,500 bottles were filled in May 2019 at 14% abv, 5.5 ta, and neither filtered nor fined. It faithfully reflects the origin and style of the structured white wine elaborated under this brand in the past. THE SPANISH ACQUISTION

    2017
    Palomino
    Spain
    410
  4. Algueira Brandan 2017
    Algueira Brandan 2017
    This crystalline, fleshy Godello comes from a terraced vineyard that has been painstakingly restored by Algueira's Fernando González. This vineyard lies on the cooler, north facing Orense bank of the River Sil, the opposite side to most of Algueira's holdings. Here the 30 to 80 year old vines are rooted in the losa (schist) soils of the Amandi gorge. The name of the wine pays tribute to the Celtic ancestry of the region by the way (Brandan was a Celtic warlord who originally settled the area). Fermented with natural yeasts only and aged entirely without oak. BIBENDUM
    2017
    Godello
    Spain
    471
  5. Riorret Lusatia Park Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
    Riorret Lusatia Park Vineyard Chardonnay 2017
    Lusatia Park is in the Upper Yarra, and the cooler climate - coupled with the modest alcohol - led to the decision to take the wine through mlf. It certainly hasn't stripped the elegance or fresh, juicy/limey acidity of this lovely chardonnay. The Yarra Valley length of flavour is on full display, oak (obviously) simply a means to an end. JAMES HALLIDAY, winecompanion.com
    2017
    chardonnay
    Australia
    506
    Special Price $40.00 Regular Price $49.00 As low as $33.00
  6. Tarrawarra Chardonnay MDB 2015
    Tarrawarra Chardonnay MDB 2015
    This wine is very good. Seldom made, it is a reflection of select, high-performing plots preening in top vintages such as this. The intensity and compelling persistence of flavour careens along a track of pungent mineral and transparent acidity. The fruit, stone fruit all, comes a distant second to the wine's structural pedigree. There is plenty of oak slung across its frame, too. However, it nestles effortlessly into the wine's weight and precision, channelling it toward a long life NED GOODWIN MW, James Halliday's Wine Companion

    If the 2012 was a Toorak tractor then this is a Bentley. A stately and sophisticated wine that makes a statement but isn't flashy or overt, rather it relies on the sheer class of its fruit and sophistication of winemaking to say everything that needs to be said. I think, at some stage, the wood was probably quite evident here but now it just provides a very subtle background note of spice and smoke. It's so confident and well executed that it's easy to overlook the inherent power that it, deftly, holds, the intensity of fruit and impressive volume seem to come together with ease and fill your mouth without being overbearing, rather it's quite an enticing character that brings you back for more. Seamless, the overall sense is one of zen like harmony. I only had a small taste, I will be buying some bottles for myself. ROSCOE
    2017
    chardonnay
    Australia
    506
  7. Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2021
    Feudo Montoni Grillo Timpa 2021
    The most succulent ripe peach aromas complemented by hints of tangerine and fresh mint waft up from the 2021 Grillo Timpa. It is round and fleshy in feel, with sweet inner florals up front that give way to tropical melon and exotic spice. While a bit extroverted in character, there's plenty of stimulating acidity and sour citrus tones within to maintain fabulous balance. The 2021 leaves the palate completely refreshed with hints of kiwi and lime zest that linger. This really packs a punch, yet it never gets cloying or tiring. ERIC GUIDO, vinous.com
    2017
    Italy
    482
  8. Paolo Vodopivec Vitovska Classica 2017
    Paolo Vodopivec Vitovska Classica 2017
    Paolo Vodopivec works only with the Vitovska grape, which is native to the area bordering Slovenia and just north of Trieste. He likes to use ancient winemaking techniques, including amphorae and works with bio-dynamically grown grapes.

    This is from a 260m vineyards with the crushed and de-stemmed grapes spending 6 months in contact with the wine in Georgian anfora. Its then matured in large Slovenian oak case for approx. 24 months before bottling without any fining or filtration.
    2017
    White
    Italy
    391
  9. Ulrich Langguth "Alte Reben' Old Vines Riesling Dry 2017
    Ulrich Langguth "Alte Reben' Old Vines Riesling Dry 2017
    The Langguth family has had roots in the wine trade and viticulture for over 200 years, with the winery being founded in 1895 by the first Ulrich Langguth. The love for wine has also gripped the current 6th generation with Patrick Langguth who runs the winery today. Patrick first studied and trained as a lawyer then moved into corporate finance. After years in the finance industry, Patrick decided to return to the family business to what he was passionate about.
    A classic dry Riesling with high mineral density, a wonderful bouquet and fine fruit. Enjoy this wine with a good meal, it goes well with fish and meat.
    2017
    Riesling
    Germany
    442
  10. Ronchi di Cialla Verduzzo di Cialla 2017
    Ronchi di Cialla Verduzzo di Cialla 2017

    Wonderfully exotic yet incredibly fresh, the 2017 Verduzzo lifts from the glass with a bouquet of exotic florals, young peach and green melon. This opens with a balanced inner sweetness complicated by salty minerals giving way to tropical citrus and ripe orchard fruits, as confectionary spices cascade throughout. The 2017 finishes vibrant and clean, leaving the palate perfectly reset for another indulgent sip. I would never guess that this finishes at 30 grams of residual sugar per liter. The harmony within is something to behold. Eric Guido, Vinous

    2017
    Italy
    391
  11. Rippon Gewurztraminer 2021
    Rippon Gewurztraminer 2021
    Aromatic, pure, ripe and seductive bouquet. Aromas and flavours of wild flowers and sweet fruits, caramelised apple flesh, a whisper of ginger spice, white peach and orange piko tea. Satin textures and alcohol deliver a gentle creamy mouthfeel, there’s white spices and ripe white fleshed fruits, a refreshing acid lone and lengthy, balanced and even finish. Well made and ready to drink form day of purchase through 2027.CAM DOUGLAS MS
    2017
    Gewurztraminer
    New Zealand
    373
  12. Paolo Scavino Barolo 2019
    Paolo Scavino Barolo 2019

    Absolutely gorgeous, the 2019 Barolo from Paolo Scavino stuns with its fragrance of perfumed berry, dark spice, Alpine herb and dog rose. One of best entry level Barolos from the vintage, it’s focused, vibrant and savory, delivering crushed mint, star anise, cranberry, red cherry and blood orange. Elegant and taut, it boasts polished tannins while bright acidity imparts vibrancy and tension. (96) KERIN OKEEFE

    The fresh flowers, like roses, really come through here. Perfumed. Sliced strawberry and citrus. Full-bodied with linear and tight tannins. Bright acidity gives it drive and focus. Give it four or five years to soften and come together. (95) JAMES SUCKLING

    2017
    Italy
    457
  13. Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2019
    Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero 2019

    The 2019 Monvigliero from Paolo Scavino is a showstopper, with enticing scents of blue flower, ripe berry, camphor and mocha that segue over to the elegantly structured palate along with raspberry compote, licorice and tobacco. A long mineral finish lifts the delicious flavors while tightly knit, velvety tannins provide seamless support. (97) KERIN OKEEFE

    Aromas of slate, raspberry, black cherry and dried strawberry follow through to a full body with firm and linear tannins, and a racy acidity that runs long and bright. Needs time to soften but wonderful length. (96) JAMES SUCKLING

     

    2017
    Italy
    457
  14. Muros Antigos Vinho Verde 2021
    Muros Antigos Vinho Verde 2021
    The 2021 Muros Antigos Escolha is a blend of 40% Loureiro, 40% Avesso and 20% Alvarinho, unoaked and coming in at 12.3% alcohol, plus something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 6.8 grams of total acidity. A lovely blend and another fine value this year, this is bright and fresh but also surprisingly persistent without harshness. It is perfectly balanced. The Loureiro is asserting itself nicely in flavors and aromatics, making this blend extra appealing. It is very expressive, even as only a component in the blend. There is certainly reasonable concentration, but this is less about concentration than the crisp and fruity finish. To be sure, it is not terribly energetic this year, but it is harmonious and impossible to resist. It should hold a reasonable time, perhaps longer than indicated, but there is no reason to wait. MARK SQUIIRES, The Wine Advocate  
    2017
    White Blend
    Portugal
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