WHITE WINE

Vintages don't necessarily follow in chronological order here, so from the 2014 I tasted last year (which is just being released now!), we jump to the 2018 Gorvia Blanco. This plot had normal yields in 2018, as the development was quite early and the fruit setting was before the problems showed up. This is the first year that has a little Godello, as Mateo replaced the dead vines and regrafted some rows with Godello, so it has a very small percentage (perhaps 5%). This is sharp, austere, mineral and incredibly young, and it finishes with a clean, sharp and precise salty note. This follows the textural direction of the Fisterra, or the wine he bottled for Matador. This should develop in bottle for a long time. He thinks 2014 is starting to show well now, almost six years after the harvest. I think this wine can be enjoyed young, but it will improve and develop a lot in bottle. LUIS GUITIERREZ, The Wine Advocate

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Limpid, yellow-gold. A highly complex, mineral-laced bouquet evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, chalky minerals, sweet butter and white flowers. A hint of anise emerges with air. Shows noteworthy depth and sharp delineation in the mouth, offering vibrant orange zest, pear nectar, buttered toast and succulent herb flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. Powerful, yet graceful in character, displaying superb focus and mineral thrust on an impressively long finish that features lingering floral and orchard fruit flourishes. (Aged in a combination of stainless steel tanks and used 500-liter French oak barrels.) JOSH RAYNOLDS, Vinous.com

 

 

Even the entry-level white 2020 Candea Blanco, a regional blend of equal parts of Dona Blanca, Verdello and Treixadura fermented and kept with lees in stainless steel for one year, shows character, cleanliness, precision and freshness beyond the price point, and it transcends appellation and vintage and is offered with some time in bottle. It has only 12.5% alcohol and an expressive nose of herbs and flowers, and it is balanced, harmonious and elegant and finishes dry and long with a tasty and salty twist. A bargain. 6,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022. LUIS GUTIERREZ, Wine Advocate