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Margaret river

Maritime Margaret River is a beautiful mixing pot of nature, surf and wine. It’s a rare place in that it produces some of Australia’s most stylish and prized Chardonnays as well as some of our most elegant and complex Cabernets. On paper it sounds like a lovechild between Bordeaux and Burgundy, but in reality it’s not.

A few hours south of Perth, Margaret River is home to some of Australia’s greatest wineries – Cullen, Vasse Felix, Leeuwin, Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. In terms of newcomers, we take our hats off to Nocturne, Dormilona and Flametree.

Chardonnay, semillion and sauvignon blanc lead the charge on the white grapes. Oak is favoured in the premium styles which complements a rich core of nectarines, peaches and orchard fruits.  For reds, cabernet is the chosen one, and is often blended with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. These red blends personify elegance and ageability.

 

The wines of Margaret River fly the flag for modern Australian wines, a beautiful balance of fruit and workmanship.

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The Margaret River wine region (some 240km south of Perth) is the most important region, alon with the Great Southern in Western Australia. Its viticultural history began in the nineteenth century on a very small scale when the grandfather of Dr Kevin Cullen, founder of Cullen Wines established vineyards at Bunbury in 1890, though the vineyard site has now been absorbed by Bunburys unban suburbs. Contemporary Margaret river viticulture began in 1967 when Perth cardiologist Tom Cullity - inspired by papers written by John Gladstones from the University of WA which suggested Margaret River was a good place to grow grapes - planted the first commercial vineyard at Vasse Felix.  Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle and Cullen soon followed and since then Margaret River has grown to become regarded as one of Australia's, and the world's great wine-producing regions and today there are nearly 5,500 hectares under vine and over 120 wine producers in the region.

Though warm, Margaret River's proximity to the Indian Ocean provides a moderating effect ensuring a temperate dry climate which is often likened to Bordeaux, in part due to the moderating influence of its proximity to the ocean and also due to the marked similarities between the average growing tempreture in Margaret River and Bordeaux in a dry vintage. These warm even growing conditions allow for the cultivation of a number of diverse grape varieties, Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc (often blended together) does well here, producing fresh textural white wines best condumed in their youth. However, the real heroes are the world class Chardonnays (headed by Leeuwin Estate and Cullen) and Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet blends, Cullen and Moss Wood, that have done much to propel both the region and it's star performers on the world stage.  Vasse Felix, Voyager Estate, Cullen, Moss Wood, Lenton Brae, Pierro, Fraser Gallop and Woodlands are just some of the benchmark producers.

Sources:
The Wine Atlas of Australia, James Halliday

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  4. McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay 2019
    McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay 2019
    Rock salt, smoke and seaweed on rocks - a wine that smells of the sea. But, oh how it thrills and fills into its fruit on the palate. Hazelnuts, almond blossom, masses of chalk-lined lime; cold white apples, gold-skinned. Long-limbed, rangy, breathtakingly graceful. It has a saline sparsity, yet draws a crescent line through the mouth, filling every corner with a cool lunar glow and the promise of fulness to come. The finest gauze of white pepper, peppermint and pressed-pear sweetness on the finish. Super-subtle complexity. (17.5+) TAMLYN CURRIN, jancisrobinson.com

    The 2019 vintage was cool in Margaret River, with no shortage of rain. For those producers that handled the vineyards with detail and agile responsiveness, the vintage was a resounding success. The 2019 Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay is minerally and layered with graphite and flint laced into the aromatics. In the mouth, the wine is taut and spicy, but it has expanse and shape through the mid-palate onward, too. Through the finish, there's a saline/nougat nutty character: almond skin and walnut. Very smart. A brilliant wine that will only improve. (95+) ERIN LARKIN, wineadvocate.com
    2019
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $75.00 As low as $67.50
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  7. Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc 2023
    Voyager Estate Chenin Blanc 2023
    Fruit for the Chenin Blanc comes from three organically farmed estate blocks on the Voyager Estate property. Voyager has some of the oldest Chenin Blanc in the Margaret River region, with some of the vines planted as far back as 1978. The vineyard soils are mostly gravelly loams with stony clay subsoils, providing excellent drainage and good moisture-holding capacity. The resulting fruit has exceptional balance.
    2022
    Chenin Blanc
    Australia
    432
    $27.00 As low as $24.30
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  11. Domaine Naturaliste Floris Chardonnay 2022
    Domaine Naturaliste Floris Chardonnay 2022
    Toasty brioche, buttercups, wild herbs, pears, apples and stone fruit on a perfumed nose. Clear, focused and linear. A feeling of latent power; seamless integration and long finish. Truly well-balanced DECNATER

    This has the same back label fruit description of white grapefruit and nectarine as its Artus Chardonnay sibling, but that is where the similarity ends. This is all about purity and finesse, the fruit flavours strung on a necklace of diamonds, oak incidental. JAMES HALLIDAY
    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $37.00 As low as $33.30
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  12. Domaine Naturaliste Discovery Chardonnay 2022
    Domaine Naturaliste Discovery Chardonnay 2022

    So I'll open by saying that for me one of the most rewarding aspects of working in the wine industry is the people you meet. I truly believe that this industry is a unique resource of some of the most brilliant minds you'll ever come across. This can be particularly so when travelling to regions and meeting producers who have devoted their lives to understanding the art and science of turning grapes into wine on the particular plots of dirt where they've found themselves living out their lives. My highlight this year was visiting Bruce Dukes at Domaine Naturaliste.

    The project of Domaine Naturaliste is one of understanding living systems. This is Bruce's pervasive motivation. There are biological systems in every part of the wine to table matrix. In the glass, in the bottle, in the barrel, in the winery, in the vineyard, in the region, on the earth. Furthermore,  on an aesthetic level, the winery is a tech-lovers paradise. It looks like how I would imagine NASA might design a winery. It's slick, ultra clean, and the record keeping looks like it would rival the Apollo missions. Big wow.

    The 'Discovery Series' is Bruce's entry level tier and are a real highlight - these wines are the perfect introduction to the project of Domaine Naturaliste and the best of the bunch for me is the Chardonnay. 7 months sur lie, early battonage to bring texture and purity of fruit. This is a really smart wine at the price point and shows like good clever Margaret River Chardonnay. Grapefruit, custard apple, white peach, white flowers, chalk and flint. Really punching above its weight at the price point. Lovingly referred to by Bruce and Wendy as "disco" Chardonnay. Stop what you are doing and buy this wine!  EFFIE, PWS

    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $25.00 As low as $22.50
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  13. Pierro Chardonnay 2022
    Pierro Chardonnay 2022
    '…this wine is powerful, rich and precise. It's full-bodied and layered with ripe stone fruit, nutty, creamy lees and spicy oak, and yet, the super-tight acid line seems to corral all those overt flavours into submission driving to a long, resounding finish while allowing moreish, savoury aspects to rise - lemon-lime freshness cleansing the palate. Impressive. JANE FAULKNER, winecompanion.com

    Peach, pear and fennel, spiced butter cashews, flinty top note, a little saline with it. Lively acidity and chalky dusty texture, creamy with some tropical accents, and a lime-laced finish of excellent length. Such regal carriage and delivery of bold Chardonnay flavour. GARY WALSH, winefront.com
    2021
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $115.00 As low as $103.50
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  16. Nocturne SR Chardonnay 2022
    Nocturne SR Chardonnay 2022
    This wine is, unsurprisingly, just right. In fact, I think this is easily the most righteous SR Chardonnay made to date.  It’s pale green, smells of white stone fruits and gun flint and sea breeze.  It is more restrained perhaps, than the traditional stylings of Margaret River but I think it’s all the better for its understated awesomeness if you will. As with every Nocturne wine, the texture and flavour are to die for & impeccably framed by sherbet-like acidity and fine phenolic structure… Chardonnay is what Jesus made when he turned water into wine; it’s also why we winemakers have a God complex. – JULIAN LANGWORTHY, Winemaker - Nocturne
    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $38.00 As low as $34.20
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  17. Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2022
    Vasse Felix Chardonnay 2022

    A lovely waxy, green tea candle note lifts in the subtle white peach, pear and green plum perfume, accompanied by complex floral aromas of Jasmine and camomile and sexy hints of rock flint and vanilla bean. More savoury complexity will develop with time in the bottle.

    A lovely rich core framed by a delicate dry structure. The satin palate features complex flavours of purified lemon, a hint of ginger, custard and delicate peach, and finishes with a lovely dry, chalky feel.

    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $43.00 As low as $38.70
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  18. Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022
    Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022
    A beautiful, restrained Heytesbury this year, a wine of brilliant, yet quiet complexity. A wine that whispers from the glass with grapefruit, sea-spray, flint and and sweet spice. Get it past the gums and there's more of that classic pink grapefruit, white peach and saline acidity, a little Paloma-esque if you will. The texture here is wonderful as the wine floods the palate with sizzling energy and intensity before the powdery texture and taut zesty acidity and reigns everything in leaving you with a long drying finish flecked with crushed rock. A wine that oozes class and polish. ALEX DOBSON, PWS
    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $130.00 As low as $117.00
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  20. Deep Woods Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023
    Deep Woods Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023

    JAMES HALLIDAY'S TOP 100 WINES 2023
    There's a special bond between place and variety here that creates a style unmatched elsewhere in Australia. The partial barrel ferment of a richly flavoured mix of snow pea, citrus and passionfruit has a refreshing undercarriage of polished acidity. (95) JAMES HALLIDAY

    SPECIAL VALUE - It oscillates between showy and bright with varietal flavours of snow peas, lemon balm, lemon-lime juice and passionfruit pith. A neat slip of texture with some creamy lees and slightly sticky phenolics JANE FAULKNER

    2022
    sauvignon Blanc
    Australia
    432
    $26.00 As low as $23.40
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  24. Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2021
    Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay 2021

    The 2021 Art Series Chardonnay leads with a distinctly floral nose: jasmine and white garden rose, wisteria and lemon blossom… On the palate, the wine is powerful and savory-it leans heavily on exotic dry spice and cracked honeycomb, with hints of salted butter on fresh white bread, beeswax and salted pink grapefruit. Stylistically, it is not dissimilar to the 2017; however, the dovetailing of acid and fruit feels seamless and well matched here. The wine is piercing and structural, tightly coiled and almost rigid, in the best of ways. It's an impressive wine, one that, at this stage of its life, is defined by its penetrating acid line. Sealed under screw cap. (97+) ERIN LARKIN

    Pear, lime, grapefruit, floral too, with a distinct mint/aniseed top note, backed with discreet spicy cinnamon/ginger oak. It's fresh and lively, quite saline too, flinty and chalky, a honey ginger drink character in the mix, along with a cucumber coolness and biscuit spices, a whole lot of presence and power here, delivered in a kind of understated, but confident way. The finish is very long, and refreshing. Gee, this is good wine. It ripples through the mouth like a flat white stone pitched across a cool lake. That's an image for you, and I'll leave you with that. (97) GARY WALSH

    There's always an anticipation when a new vintage arrives. This doesn't disappoint - it's archetypal Art Series: powerful, rich and layered with flavour from stone fruit, pink grapefruit and Meyer lemon to a touch of mandarin. The palate builds with creamy lees, oak spice and some phenolics - the oak is superbly integrated, and pure acidity leads this to a persistent finish. Impressive as always. (97) JANE FAULKNER

    2020
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    $190.00 As low as $171.00
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  26. Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2022
    Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2022

    The most successful chardonnay cuvée from this producer, at least in this vintage. All Gingin clone, the regional stalwart. At times, straight renditions can be so intensely flavored that they are hard to drink. In this instance, however, there is ample pastry dough, peach and cream accents that serve to sublimate the sour acidity into a more integrated whole. The scintillating length is unimpeachable. This should age very well. Drinkable now, but best from 2027 NED GOODWIN MW, jamessuckling.com

    In all honesty, in pure drinking pleasure terms, I like this every bit as much as the Heytesbury. It’s so exotic, so cool, so (attractively) reductive, so thoroughly washed with nectarine and citrus, so wild with assorted floral characters. This is what single plot/vineyard/site wines are all about. It’s a quality wine but it’s also different, and that difference deserves to be showcased, and celebrated. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front

    That's a wild wine! I opened that without really paying attention. Poured a glass. Had a sniff... yeah nice... had a chat to my wife for a few minutes before I picked the glass back up. No talking after that.
    Deep, there's a sweetness here (hold tight gang) that's reminiscent of biting in to a perfectly ripe nectarine, yeah, juicy almost in how primary that character feels. Shocking. Then it's an explosion from there. Powerhouse through and through. Concentrated, large in scale and dimension. Hugely intense but just skips feeling overwhelming, rather it's massive presence walks that tightrope of power and freshness that keeps you on the edge of your seat.
    Brilliantly fresh. Long. Satisfying and paradoxically uplifting, considering its heft, this is a Chardonnay Vasse should be proud of. I think it's this over the current Heytesbury for me. Give it time. Don't stress for 10-20 years. Brilliant.
    I don't know what to tell you here. I'm clearly a Vasse Chardonnay fan boy, but I'm still regularly surprised by how great these wines can be.
    This has everything for everyone. All the components needed for a great Chardonnay are wrapped up in this bottle, also the label is old school, bonus point for that. What crazy juice.
    Buy it to drink but if you have a cellar please buy it for that. As great, it really is, as it is today, this thing will blow your fedora off (hipsters... what is with those hats?) if given the time. ROSCOE

    2022
    chardonnay
    Australia
    432
    Special Price $72.00 Regular Price $82.00 As low as $68.00
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