WHITE WINE - Portugal

Louro is the Atlantic coastal name for the Laurel, or Bay tree. Loureiro wines are floral and smell deeply of lemon and bay. The basic characteristic is a linear, racy and acidic wine with low levels of both grape sugar and phenolic material. After careful viticulture, winemaking is simple and tech-driven: low-cropped old vines are sorted twice (firstly to eliminate disease, then further selected for quality); whole grapes undergo penumatic pressing; must is cold-settled for 48 hours; a quite cool fermentation (max 15 degrees) takes place in stainless steel vats for 12-15 days; the wine is matured for 6 months in stainless steel.

Over the past decade, organic and biodynamic viticulture has progressively added a deeper, richer, fragrant bay leaf character to the lemony precision of Pedro's outstanding crunch-yet-textured Loureiro white.

Anselmo Mendes is one of the most important names in the Vinho Verde region - indeed in Portuguese wine. As well as his own labels, he is a consultant to many of the leading quintas of the Minho and beyond. He calls himself a 'student' of Alvarinho and represents the 3rd generation of Alvarinho producers. Obtaining his Masters of Oenology in Bordeaux, Anselmo brings knowledge and experience with skin contact and barrel use from his time in France. Anslemo is a massive proponent of letting the vineyard tell the story but his guiding hand lifts the fruit to a stunning level. In terms of range and price, these are the best value Vinho Verde wines in Portugal.he most premium of the Vinho Verde varieties.
 
So, so good! Bright orange, lemon, a hint of tropical fruit, some green herbs and a spicy-quartzy kind of thing that is so appealing. The palate follows with juicy guava, a touch of mango and delivers a power-punch of flavour yet remains incredibly bright. Anselmo has a real knack for getting plenty of ripe fruit flavour without letting it overrun his wines into the simple fruity. Rather he layers in some beautiful textural elements to counterpoint the fruit and is underpinned by a luscious minerality that is so appealing.

The 2021 Muros Antigos Escolha is a blend of 40% Loureiro, 40% Avesso and 20% Alvarinho, unoaked and coming in at 12.3% alcohol, plus something less than 1.5 grams of residual sugar and 6.8 grams of total acidity. A lovely blend and another fine value this year, this is bright and fresh but also surprisingly persistent without harshness. It is perfectly balanced. The Loureiro is asserting itself nicely in flavors and aromatics, making this blend extra appealing. It is very expressive, even as only a component in the blend. There is certainly reasonable concentration, but this is less about concentration than the crisp and fruity finish. To be sure, it is not terribly energetic this year, but it is harmonious and impossible to resist. It should hold a reasonable time, perhaps longer than indicated, but there is no reason to wait. MARK SQUIIRES, The Wine Advocate  

The sub-zone Monção e Melgaço is inland from Portugal’s North Atlantic coast, and with a very specific microclimate, expressing less Atlanticity than the wines of the rest of the region. The wines from here have Vinho Verde’s typical freshness and minerality, but more body and flavour. 50:50 Alvarinho-Trajadura (pronounced Trajah- doo-rah; aka Albariño and Treixadura if we were in Spain) from granitic soils. Grapes are hand harvested and transported to the winery in small crates, where bunches are destemmed, followed by a short 4 hour maceration, and a slow fermentation of 15 days in small stainless tanks.

On the surface, ripe crab-apple, nashi pear, greengage and cress. Below the surface, jasmine, sage, cardamom and curry leaf give depth, charm and interest. Grassy fresh-tilled green herbs, and a touch of nutty roundness on both nose and palate and yellow sandy depth. For a light wine it has good depth and a nice pocket of roundness early, before easing to mineral-herbal line out back. It has a smooth gliding texture from the Trajadura, and a sweet-and sour grapefruit acid finish, giving the wine swing and zing.

Aromas of white peaches, green pears, lemon blossom and gooseberries. Crisp and fruity with a medium body. Excellent freshness. Drink now. JAMES SUCKLING