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Mornington

Located in the Port Phillip Zone an hour's drive north of Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula has a short, yet remarkable history of fine wine production. While there were a smattering of vineyards in the nineteenth century, modern viticulture on the Peninsula began when Ballieu Myer established a vineyard in 1972. This began an explosion of vineyards over the next thirty years with Main Ridge (1975) Stonier Wines (1978) Dromana Estate (1982) Moorooduc Estate (1983) Paringa Estate (1985) Port Phillip Estate (1987) Kooyong Estate (1996) Yabby Lake (1998), Ten Minutes by Tractor (1999) amongst those to become established during this time. Mornington Peninsula’s proximity to Melbourne and its underlying historical status as a holiday destination has strongly influenced the region's structure, influencing land prices resulting in a patchwork of small vineyards and producers spread across the area triangulated between popular weekend destination of Somerville, Flinders on Bass Straight and Rosebud on Port Phillip Bay. The result is a number of particularly accessible cellar door facilities and restaurants catering to tourists over weekends.

A maritime climate, the influence of Mornington’s proximity to the ocean, Bass Straight, and Port Philip Bay is the single most significant climatic factor affecting vineyards, followed by the diverse typography of terrain. Overall the climate is cool, the pervasive winds limiting issues with humidity and frost. The typography soil profile is diverse, impacting on viticulture, with the significantly cooler, elevated area surrounding Red Hill and Arthurs Seat (Main Ridge, Port Philip Estate) on fertile red volcanic soils, differing from the warmer low-lying areas of Moorooduc and Tuerong (Yabby Lake) which have well-draining sandy soils.

Mornington Peninsula is renowned for the production of high quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which are the most planted varieties, alongside Shiraz, Pinot Gris and very small quantities of Sauvignon Blanc. Mornington Pinot Noir is diverse, with many single vineyard bottlings ranging from light delicate expressions to more powerful styles with wines displaying flavours of bright cherry, strawberry and nuances of earth to powerful expressions with darker fruits and firmer tannins. Outstanding producers include Kooyong, Hurley Vineyards, Port Philip Estate, Ten Minutes by Tractor, Moorooduc Estate and Yabby Lake. Quality conscious producers follow the same model with Chardonnay bottling premium wines from site specific vineyards. On the whole these display delicate aromas of melon, citrus, with warmer sites display fig notes. Depending on winemaking styles they also may show notes of nutty characters of cashew and toasty oak or butter. Outstanding producers include Main Ridge, Kooyong, Yabby Lake, Moorooduc and Ten Minutes by Tractor.

While only planted in small quantities Shiraz from the Mornington Peninsula displays the classic cool climate characters including spice, black and white pepper, smoked meats and liquorice. Outstanding producers are limited, though the variety is starting to gain ground with both Paringa Estate and Foxy’s Hangout winning awards at major Australian wine shows in the last three years. 

Pinot Gris is produced in small quantities and occasionally labelled as Pinot Grigio to indicate a dryer Italian style expression of the variety with T'Gallant and Quealy having had success with this variety.

Sources:
James Halliday’s Wine Atlas of Australian, James Halliday
Victorian Department of Primary Industries
Wine Australia

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  1. Kooyong Pinot Noir 2019 375ml
    Kooyong Pinot Noir 2019 375ml

    Kooyong, owned by Giorgio and Dianne Gjergja, released its first wines in 2001. The vineyard is planted to pinot noir (20ha), chardonnay (10.4ha) and, more recently, pinot gris (3ha). In July '15, following the departure of Sandro Mosele, his assistant of six years, Glen Hayley, was appointed to take his place. The Kooyong wines are made at the state-of-the-art winery of Port Phillip Estate, also owned by the Gjergjas. JAMES HALLIDAY

    The estate Pinot Noir from one of the Mornington Peninsula’s flag bearers.

    It’s a wine defined by its shape. It angles towards the finish and then pushes on out; the pulleys are in place from the beginning. Twiggy spice, a general woody/savouriness, dark cherry and a light coating of cedar. I wouldn’t call it taut but I would call it firm and indeed strict. It’s as though the wine’s flavour run on converging rails. It’ll be a better drink in a year or more. CAMPBELL MATTINSON

    2019
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $30.00 As low as $27.00
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  2. Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 375ml
    Yabby Lake Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 375ml

    2021 was a vintage of exceptional quality.  A wet winter, mild spring and temperate summer produced wines that will live long in the memory and in the cellar.  The wines are fine, focused, beautifully balanced and above all, utterly delicious. This Single Vineyard Pinot Noir is intense and complex, super fine and silky. 

    A bright and dense crimson colour. The aromas are intense and complex for a young wine - red fruits, raspberry, red currant with dark cherries, coupled with a floral and spicy note. The palate is super fine and silky with layers of flavour and texture leading to a long and bold finish. Cellar for at least five years, and preferably more than 10. TOM CARSON, Winemaker, Yabby Lake

    2018
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $38.00 As low as $34.20
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  5. Moorooduc Estate McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    Moorooduc Estate McIntyre Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    There's a gentle persuasion, a slight tension between the supple tannins and gossamer-like acidity that gives this definition yet still stays refined. The light hue belies the flavours of cherries and pips, sumac, chinotto and mandarin peel. Very even across the palate. Very easy to drink. A smashing wine. JANE FAULKNER, wineadvocate.com

    Has the deep-seated red and black cherry, berry and sweet plum fruit one expects of McIntyre, wed to zesty, bergamot orange acidity and sweet anise lift. Mulchy tobacco/tobacco pouch and sandalwood notes are the savoury foil. A fine mesh of spicy tannins and riptide of acidity lend impetus, great length. SARAH AHMED, decanter.com
    2021
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $93.00 As low as $83.70
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  6. Moorooduc Estate Robinson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    Moorooduc Estate Robinson Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021
    Lots of exotic spices on the go with sweet rhubarb and red cherries, it smells of autumn. Filigree tannins are laced through the fine acidity, which leads this gently through to a finish that feels, of all things, calm. My new Zen wine. JANE FAULKNER, wineadvocate.com

    … buoyant, well-defined strawberry, red cherry and plum fruit, salty red liquorice, a lick of dried herbs, beetroot and dark chocolate and crunchy acidity. With fluid tannins, it is the more delicate of the single vineyard wines, it was 100% destemmed, unfined and un-filtered and spent 19 days on skins and 14 months in French oak, 20% new. SARAH AHMED, decanter.com
    2021
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $76.00 As low as $68.40
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  9. Paradigm Hill Pinot Noir L'Ami Sage 2020 375ml
    Paradigm Hill Pinot Noir L'Ami Sage 2020 375ml
    George is winding back his production at Paradigm Hill and that is a real shame but with no new generation to take the lead he will keep at it all-be-it with a reduced output. His 2020's are some of the best in recent years and the Lamis Sage is always the more structured and tightly wound of the two single vineyards so being a half bottle and with a few years under its belt this one is a ripper!

     Intense, enticing darker red fruit aromas followed by the expected savoury, toasty, fleshy and earthy character of this wine For L’ami sage, there is also a generosity together with a long complex and balanced fresh finish. Super fine tannins melt away easily into the gossamer fruit. Lovely drop! 
    2020
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $49.00 As low as $44.10
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  15. Crittenden Estate 'Kangerong' Pinot Noir 2022
    Crittenden Estate 'Kangerong' Pinot Noir 2022
    Gold Medal, 96 points, Mornington Peninsula Wine Show 2023

    The origin of the name Kangerong can be traced back to the Bunurong People. The surrounding area, now known as the Kangerong basin, is home to our 27 acre family farm; an area which we feel is ideally suited to the Peninsula’s more recent agricultural pursuit of wine grape growing - in particular the regional heroes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

    The nose of the Kangerong Pinot has pretty floral notes and subtle spice, kirch like fruit and that little amaro lift you often see in the Mornington. On the palate you'll find black cherries, spice and a velvety texture from thoughtful oak handling. TIght and focused fruit but they flow easily and readily. This looks serious and at once easy-going in its delivery.
    2022
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $48.00 As low as $43.20
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  22. Crittenden Geppetto Pinot Noir 2023
    Crittenden Geppetto Pinot Noir 2023

    Garry Crittenden is a 'Legend' of the Mornington Peninsula, planting cool climate grapes, back in 1982, when the region was known mostly for hobby farming wines.

    Geppetto is unashamedly designed for youthful drinking and is part of his quest to produce premium but affordable wines. A vibrant colour with berry fruits and spice on the nose. On the palate there are ripe cherries, pepper and liquorice. PWS

    2023
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    $22.00 As low as $19.80
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  23. Onannon Tuerong Robinson Pinot Noir 2022
    Onannon Tuerong Robinson Pinot Noir 2022
    A savoury and brooding wine with dark red fruits wrapped in woodsy, herbal spice. It's earthy in that forest floor after rain type of way with plenty of wholebunch giving sinew to it's frame and a distinctive savoury injection. There's a little, press of powdery tannin on the finish. It's a little wild and inward but if you like your pinots like this it's going to be right up your alley. ALEX DOBSON, PWS
    2022
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    Special Price $66.00 Regular Price $74.00 As low as $62.00
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  24. Onannon Main Ridge Tudibaring Pinot Noir 2022
    Onannon Main Ridge Tudibaring Pinot Noir 2022

    So pretty and appealing thanks to its up-front red cherries and spice flavours. At first quite fruit-sweet, then other elements come into play: tangy, tart, pomegranate-like acidity, a touch of menthol. The oak is oh-so-subtle, adding some background nuances to the lighter-framed palate with lacy tannins. This is lovely. All fruit is destemmed, cold soaked for seven days in a carbonic environment and spends six weeks on skins, then pressed straight to oak, 15% new. (95) JANE FAULKNER Wine Companion

    Red fruit, pimento, cinnamon and spice, poached strawberry and rhubarb, a little cedar oak. It’s all red fruit, some pomegranate and tamarind tang, light dusty and peppery tannin, a quiet sappy succulence, with a bright and zesty finish of excellent length. Very good. (94) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

    2022
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    Special Price $66.00 Regular Price $74.00 As low as $59.00
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  25. Onannon Red Hill Harrisons Road Pinot Noir 2022
    Onannon Red Hill Harrisons Road Pinot Noir 2022
    There’s plenty of whole bunch character, though the fruit here is up to the task. Dark raspberry, cherry, peppery and spicy, cardamom pod perfume, with a little toasty oak. Good flavour, density and weight, a dry grip to tannin with the graphite character of whole bunch as a positive, and the finish is long and firm. Nicely done. Very good wine. (95) GARY WALSH, The Wine Front
    2022
    Pinot noir
    Australia
    441
    Special Price $66.00 Regular Price $74.00 As low as $62.00
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