DESSERT WINE

The Blue Label is the producer's best-known classic Aszú wine, sold as Red Label in the USA. A refreshing nose of citrus blossom, elderflower, marmalade and ginger spices. Refreshing acidity balances a comparatively light palate of apricot, bruised yellow apple, tangerine peel and white pepper. The sugar level sits at 158 g/l, which is well-balanced by the crisp mineral acidity (7.9g/l). SYLVIA WU, Decanter

The 2017 Tokaji Blue Label 5-Puttonyos is a selection of the finest Aszú berries from across the region. This is the cuvée where I was expecting more on the nose, which seems a little taciturn at the moment and, despite my allowing the sample to aerate, never quite clicks into gear. The palate is a different matter: poised, intense and lightly spiced, with a gorgeous viscous texture. But surprisingly, of the six cuvées that I tasted from Royal Tokaji this vintage, the Blue Label is the one where I wanted more. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous

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