Calvados, Bitters, Port, Aglia...

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The 2019 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Quintodecimo is wonderfully perfumed and spicy, as wild blueberries and lavender give way to incense and clove. This is silky-smooth and elegant. A wave of mineral-tinged wild berry fruits washes across the palate, leaving a web of fine-grained tannins in its wake. The 2019 leaves the palate stained in primary concentration, tapering off dramatically long and structured yet still remarkably fresh. Luigi Moio calls this his Bordeaux without Cabernet or Merlot. It's a remarkably refined rendition of Vigna Quintodecimo. ERIC GUIDO

Luigi Moio is one of the most famous professors of viticulture and oenology in Italy and the Cru Vigna Quintodecimo is indisputably one of the most exciting and complex Taurasi Riserva in Campania. This wine possesses a unique and seductive class, a richness and elegance that outshines the entire volcanic appellation. The initially restrained bouquet only gradually opens up in layers, releasing new impressions every minute. Violets, ripe blackberries, blueberry skins, plums and white smoke unfold like a surprise bag and are reflected in the energetic mouthfeel together with finely woven tannins and a fresh interplay of fruit and acidity. The texture is impressively silky and emphasises the tremendous elegance and harmony of this exceptional Aglianico, which will reach its most exciting phase in 10-15 years at the earliest. LUCA GARDINI, superiore.de

Very dark savoury aromas. Dark elderberry. More bramble than blackcurrant. Very dry and firm and dense. Dry but slides over the palate – even though the tannins are very compact it remains fluid. Leaves your mouth feeling clean even though it is so mouthfilling. JULIA HARDING MW

This is the first time Noval have declared their famous Nacional since 2003 so this is an exciting development. Very dark purple stains the inside of the glass.  Gosh, a massive bruiser of a wine. There is such concentration here that not much aroma can escape initially. Wild, peppery stuff. Then wonderfully juicy and spicy. This is like the ultimate biodynamic wine with lots of microbiology going on, in a good way.  Very clean and fresh on the finish.  Not notably sweet and with more marked acidity than some.  A big contrast to, for example, Fonseca 2011. This is all about subtle topnotes rather than broad lusciousness. So vital! JANCIS ROBINSON, 2013

The 2011 Quinta do Noval Nacional has an entrancing bouquet that unfolds with time. It is extraordinarily concentrated with black currant pastilles, baked earth, a touch of terracotta and bay leaf that gains more dimension with time. Yet there is undeniable purity and elegance here, a seductive chorus of aromas perfectly in tune. The palate has a wondrous symmetry and focus, perfect acidity and immense purity. Everything here is so precise and at the same time, unassuming, as if this Nacional is aware of its breeding without the impulse to brag about it. It has closed down just a little since last year, but I take this as a positive sign that this legendary Nacional will delight for decades rather than years. This is the kind of elixir that leaves you speechless – surely the finest Nacional since the ethereal 1963. NEAL MARTIN, 2014