Calvados, Aglianico, Grenache

Darkly floral and intense, the 2019 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Grande Cerzito slowly awakens in the glass with a display of crushed blackberries, incense and exotic spice, complicated by hints of flowery undergrowth. This is like pure silk on the palate, polished and cool-toned in feel, with a balsamic tinge to its ripe red and black fruits. Its tannins come forward through the finish, long and staining, leaving an echo of licorice and spice to linger on and on. ERIC GUIDO

…ripe dark fruits complemented by spiced oranges, sage and mint with a hint of green olive. On the palate, velvety textures are contrasted by cooling acids, while polished black fruits wash over the senses, leaving a mix of salty minerals and fine tannins with a hint of violet flowers. The finish is long, packed with masses of ripe blackberries, plums and sweet herbal tones, but also perfectly structured and, for all its youthfulness, very balanced and harmonious. Luigi Moio and his team have interpreted this vintage brilliantly and once again set new standards with this single-vineyard Aglianico. LUCA GARDINI, superiore.de

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape le Plateau—the only one of these four vintages to be bottled—is velvety and forward, with notes of ripe cherries, cedar, vanilla and mocha. It's full-bodied, but not overbearingly tannic, making it approachable already. Only the second vintage to be produced, it's a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah that matured in a mix of tanks and new barrels. JOE CZERWINSKI, The Wine Advocate

In the same ballpark, the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Le Plateau comes only from the Mont Redon plateau and is a limited release based on 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah brought up in a mix of used and new barrels. Its saturated purple color is followed by a rocking bouquet of black raspberries, cassis, graphite, violets, and crushed rocks. With plenty of background oak, terrific depth of fruit, full body, and ripe, present tannins, it’s another balanced, age-worthy effort from this estate that should be snatched up by readers. Give bottles 4-5 years and enjoy over the following two decades. (93-95) JEB DUNNUCK

Made in small volumes only in the best years, this comes from plots chosen on the famed Le Plateau de Mont-Redon, the high plateau of galets roules, (large round stones) that makes this one of the most prized terroirs in the appellation. These large stones up to 2 metres deep combine with fine safre (sandy soil) over thin layers of clay which provide important water holding capacity providing an ideally moderate supply of water. The plateau sits high and is exposed to the sun and the Mistral wind giving an optimal ripeness and sanitary state for the vineyard.

Made from parcels of Grenache (63 % planted 1940s) and Syrah (31 % planted 1950s-1960s) and 6 % Mourvèdre. Hand harvested and 100% destemmed with 2-3 days of cold maceration and skin contact of 15-20 days during which extraction is performed mostly by punching down the cap of the ferments. Elevage of 40 % in stainless steel and 60 % in barrels (50 % new) for 18 months, the selected parcels are blended and aged on fine lees for a further 10 months in tank before bottling. Immense ageing capacity giving a wine which shows the quintessence of the older vines of Le Plateau de Mont-Redon.

The 2019 Taurasi Riserva Vigna Quintodecimo is wonderfully perfumed and spicy, as wild blueberries and lavender give way to incense and clove. This is silky-smooth and elegant. A wave of mineral-tinged wild berry fruits washes across the palate, leaving a web of fine-grained tannins in its wake. The 2019 leaves the palate stained in primary concentration, tapering off dramatically long and structured yet still remarkably fresh. Luigi Moio calls this his Bordeaux without Cabernet or Merlot. It's a remarkably refined rendition of Vigna Quintodecimo. ERIC GUIDO

Luigi Moio is one of the most famous professors of viticulture and oenology in Italy and the Cru Vigna Quintodecimo is indisputably one of the most exciting and complex Taurasi Riserva in Campania. This wine possesses a unique and seductive class, a richness and elegance that outshines the entire volcanic appellation. The initially restrained bouquet only gradually opens up in layers, releasing new impressions every minute. Violets, ripe blackberries, blueberry skins, plums and white smoke unfold like a surprise bag and are reflected in the energetic mouthfeel together with finely woven tannins and a fresh interplay of fruit and acidity. The texture is impressively silky and emphasises the tremendous elegance and harmony of this exceptional Aglianico, which will reach its most exciting phase in 10-15 years at the earliest. LUCA GARDINI, superiore.de