Henschke Hill of Grace 2016

“I think the quality of the 15s and 16s are a bit like choosing between your children in a way”, states vigneron Stephen Henschke, Sophie’s Choice and all that. “It was an absolute classic vintage, and then a challenging one, and then one that finished superbly”, says Henschke. More like 2008, perhaps, or stretch back to 1994, 1988, dart across to 2005, Henschke qualifies when pressed, “flavour intense wines with lots of energy. All earlier vintages”. The idea being for drinkers, that this release presents like a richer, riper years, per se. Still with the pedigree. No doubt.

Huge fragrance, all that exotic spice, old spice cupboard, pepper, cinnamon, salted liquorice, dried flowers, dried leaves, blackcurrants, plum. A very epic perfume. Haunting, beautiful, draws you in to find all those details. Intensity is the word for flavours. So powerful yet a sense of restraint, a tension between the concentration and the taut webbing of acidity and fine, suede tannins with exceptional length. The layers here, the grace, the texture. Accessible and formidable now, so much good of everything, though wait for this one too. MIKE BENNIE