EN PRIMEUR
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Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz 2023
DOZEN: $388.80 or $32.40 each
Good wine makers will always want to be judged by their most serious wines. Truly great wine makers can be seen in their more modest wines, too. Stretching beyond Clonakilla's Canberra district heartland and heading up to the Hilltops in search of fruit, this is not so much a wine about site as it is sensibility. The Tim Kirk touch with shiraz - an innate ability to coax out dark berries, heady florals and exotic spices in their silkiest, most supple form - is clearly evident here. Masterful stuff. (95) NICK RYAN
This is as reliably good as ever, without being an absolute peak vintage release. It tastes of black cherry with edges of plum; there are herb and twig-like notes (though no whole bunches were used), there’s a subtle toasty meatiness and a little bit of mint too. Smoky/nutty oak characters are modest, bordering on unnoticeable. This wine is medium in weight at most, and a pleasure to drink. CAMPBELL MATTINSON, The Wine Front