Wurzelwerk

It’s back! The return of this trail-blazing three-way, border-hopping juice-swap experiment in 2016 involves Johannes Hasselbach of Gunderloch, his brother-in-law Alwin Jurtschitsch in the Kamptal, and Theresa Breuer of Georg Breuer in the Rheingau. The vineyards – all grands crus, whose real name couldn’t be used because this boundary-pushing concept breaks local wine laws - were: Nonnenberg (nicknamed Die Nonne Berg) in the Rheingau; Rothenberg (Der Rote Berg) in Rheinhessen; and Heiligenstein (Der Heilige Stein) in the Kamptal. The grapes were vinified similarly with minimal intervention (spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel) in three separate cellars, each with a personal interpretation. PATRICK WALSH