Wendouree

An iron fist in a velvet glove best describes these extraordinary wines. They are fashioned with commitment from the very old vineyard (shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, mataro and muscat of alexandria), with its unique terroir, by Tony and Lita Brady, who rightly see themselves as custodians of a priceless treasure. The 100-year-old stone winery is virtually unchanged from the day it was built; this is in every sense a treasure beyond price. Wendouree has never made any comment about its wines, but the subtle shift from the lighter end of full-bodied to the fuller end of medium-bodied seems to be a permanent one (always subject to the dictates of the vintage). JAMES HALLIDAY

Tiny in size but huge in significance, Wendouree has been quietly making some of Australia's least typical and most sought-after reds for over a hundred years. To this day the winery remains a private, remote affair, with neither web presence nor email address. The wines are legendary for their longevity.  RICHARD HEMMING, www.jancisrobinson.com