Ulysse Collin

A visit with Olivier Collin is always a highlight of a trip to Champagne. Collin's boundless energy and enthusiasm comes through so clearly in the fine, artisan Champagnes. Virtually all of the emphasis is on the vineyards, while the cellar is simple and stripped down to the bare essentials. All of the wines are fermented and aged in neutral oak. Tasting Collin's wines from barrel is a treat, as the terroir signatures are clearly marked, while the precision in the wines is uncanny. ANTONIO GALLONI vinous.com

One of the newest stars in the Champagne firmament is Olivier Collin, in the village of Congy in the Coteaux du Morin, the area that lies between the Côte des Blancs and the Sézanne. An inquisitive winegrower, Collin gives credit to Anselme Selosse for inspiring him to become a Champenois vigneron. He describes his stage with Selosse in 2001 as “one of those encounters that changes your life." PETER LIEM