Taupenot Merme
This is a domaine that I have followed since before writing about wine. Over the years I have witnessed immense improvement in quality under Romain Taupenot, as evidenced by a vertical of Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte in May 2018. Theirs is a classic style of Burgundy, lighter perhaps than some of their peers in Morey-Saint-Denis, consistently fresh and tensile with ever-increasing terroir expression.
“I was a bit anxious that 2017 might lack some freshness but it doesn’t at all and feels very terroir-driven. The vintage reminds me of the 2007s in terms of its floral touch, but with more concentration.”
There are a clutch of wonderful wines from Taupenot-Merme, and not just at the top of the hierarchy. Granted, the Mazoyères-Chambertin is extremely fine, but here is (yet another) very impressive Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers and one of the finest Corton-Rognets that I have encountered from the domaine. The Chambolle-Musigny la Combe d’Orveau approaches Grand Cru in terms of quality, whilst few Village Crus from any domaine can match Taupenot’s Gevrey-Chambertin…. these 2017s consolidate Taupenot-Merme’s position as one of the most reliable and exciting estates. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous
Taupenot is a domaine that, like many of their contemporaries, have been pushing the quality and fine tuning the house style now for some time. For me I really started to see this work come to fruition some years back and now I think that Virginie and Romain have found their groove. Today the wines show remarkably clear vineyard expression, a wonderful soil to glass transfer of character. They tend towards lighter extraction and more focus on purity than was the case in the past.
If you are looking for supple, refined and site/commune specific expressions then Taupenot should on your radar. ROSCOE