So emphatic in its statement of vineyard and grape variety, not least quality.  GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

Layer upon layer of concentrated flavour . . . and bounce. JENI PORT, Wine Pilot

Its intensity and length mark it out as a classic Chardonnay. GARY WALSH, The Wine Front

Brian Croser's Tapanappa Tiers Chardonnay is one of the country's greatest white wines from one of the country's most important vineyards, and the 1.5m Chardonnay a brilliant sergeant at arms. I think had these wines been made in Margaret River or the Yarra Valley they might get a little more fanfare on release, they are definitely worthy of it, but Piccadilly Valley is a little out of the purview of those with so many great wines on their doorstep. So, this is me flying the flag for SA, if you love great Chardonnay these wines should be on your ‘must buy’ list, and if you love the tension, mineral inflection and nervosity that a cooler vintage brings to Chardonnay then this pair of 2023s are wines to stock up on. 

A quick little history lesson on the people and place here. Brian Croser is one of Australia's most indelible wine minds and his reputation spans far beyond our shores. Confident, iron-willed and whip-smart Croser has always had his mind on pushing things forward, taking the leap and backing himself. He started the legendary Petaluma in seventies and was among the first in the region to really zero in on what terroirs worked for what varieties. The ripples of his influence, born in the 80s, is still felt today having mentored many of Australia's most esteemed winemaker including Martin Shaw of Shaw + Smith fame.

Today his primary focus lies with his own winery, Tapanappa based in the Piccadilly Valley. This is home to the Tiers Vineyard, the very first planted in the Adelaide Hills and unique in the region in that a fault at the edge of the vineyard has drawn up 1.6 billion years-old basement rocks to the surface giving a distinctive character to the wines not found elsewhere in the region. The close-planted, low-cropping vines here are now over 40 years of age and produce fruit of remarkable intensity, brimming with vineyard character. At the time the concept and execution of this vineyard was seen as quite radical but in hindsight, the choices made then are paying huge dividends today.

It's a special site and in the hands of a generational talent like Brian Croser the wines from it and uncompromisingly brilliant. There are two wines which come from this site, the old vine Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay and the Tiers 1.5M chardonnay. The latter comes from a second planting of vines within the vineyard to a different clone, spaced at just 1.5M apart. These vines ripen a little earlier and the wine often shows a little more richness of fruit than the old vine and pairs this with a lovely toasty, brioche character. This mix of richness and intensity is speared by an electric jolt of citrus acidity in the cooler 2023 vintage which gives balance and proportion to sweet fruit.

The 2023 vintage was another long cool, slow ripening vintage. Both wines are rippling with tension, tightly wound and revealing their mineral bones. The 1.5M shows a little more flesh and richness of texture than the Tiers with grapefruit, white nectarine, creamy nuts and white spice. Fruit and acid intertwined wonderfully and just perfectly poised. The Tiers is more compact, fruit leaning more towards pear and apple side of things with a hint of honeysuckle, it driven forward with a piercing line of lemony acidity and a sprinkling of spice. It's dense, powerful, and long, with layers of texture and a powdery press of phenolics. World class. 

As I mentioned at the top, these are among Australia's top Chardonnays, and I love the style here in a cooler vintage. A year to tuck a few away for them to emerge from their chrysalis with all their light and shade so make sure you buy enough to enjoy when the time is right.