Domaine Servin Chablis – the value for the quality delivered here is brilliant.
One of my visits of the vintage – so many ‘great’ wines at one address was very rare in my January tour! BILL NANSON, The Burgundy Report
Like their neighbor, Christian Moreau, I feel Servin is a rather under-estimated Chablis producer. NEAL MARTIN
The 30-hectare Domaine Servin, ably directed by proprietor François Servin and Australian-born winemaker Marc Cameron, continues to number among Chablis's most reliable addresses, and I enjoy serving these wines blind at home and watching while guests grope around among the village's most famous names. As I've written before, there's an emphasis on massal selections of Chardonnay in the vineyards and long élevage on the lees in the winery. What's more, Servin's palate of appellations is enviable. WILLIAM KELLEY, 2023
“Australian winemaker Marc Cameron”
I had to do a double take on that when I read it. Indeed, we have finally set up shop in Chablis. Next time I am there I may need to stop by and bring the fella a stubby of coopers.
A few surprises in this tasting. Firstly, we have been stocking Servin for a while, but I don’t think I have ever really paid enough attention to them. I happened to be tasting with the importer and asked him about the rest of the range, for some reason he had only ever showed us the entry things, which are always super I have to say. The following week he turns up with a swathe of Crus from two vintages.
We ordered everything. Every bottle of every wine we tasted. Maybe a little too much stock… that’s someone else’s problem though, I am just here to look good and talk about wine.
Some takeaway messages.
Price V quality ratio here is wild. The wines are excellent, as the reviews below attest to, and our frothing commitment to buy everything the guy had in stock. What really had me scratching my head about was the price. They are cheap! Listen, a little inside glimpse into my personality. When I got the prices, I thought the importer may have made a mistake and quoted us without taxes. So, I asked him. Then I asked him again, because he is French and I thought maybe there was some language barrier… I was sure they weren’t this cheap. They are.
There Grand Crus look closer to the pricing of some people’s Premiers.
The style, taking into account two rather different vintages, is a clean, crisp, well manicured portfolio that brings in to focus the regionality but there is some studious but not invisible winemaking influence. Wood plays a part in these, as it does with, nearly, all the top domaines. I found it a little more noteworthy in the upper echelon, but that is to be expected as they are intended to be cellared. It’s hard to find out much about the overall approach but they look like there has been some extended lees, there is nice width and breadth to them, which in the case of the 23s is a neatly rounded feel.
I want to say they seem modern, but that is not the case, if anything they are a bit of a throwback to the Chablis we saw from many producers 20 odd years ago, but more well made and true to place. Some artifice but well handled and integrated, amidst all the usual Chabliness. That last part is the key, these are piled high with typicity of place and that shines over the top of the winemaking, as it should be. Fruit first and coaxed along by the hand of man.
Perhaps I am trying too hard to explain the wines, it is my first offer for them, rather than just driving home the important parts? These are great and they are seriously undervalued for the quality they deliver.
One key difference between the vintages, 23s are a bit more charming and ready to roll while the 22s remain a little more prim and proper, a touch more reserved. Both should do well in the cellar but the 23s will be ready anytime from now.
I think that’s really everything I need to say. I feel like these guys may become regulars for us at PWS HQ.
Can I hear an “Aussie! Aussie! Aussie!” for Marc Cameron, representing us in the wilds of Burgundy.
PRODUCTS IN THIS OFFER
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Servin Chablis Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2023The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is sourced from a vineyard that is gradually producing lower yields. It is matured entirely in tank. It has a fragrant bouquet with light apricot and peach skin aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and a touch of reduction. Peach and touches of pineapple emerge toward the finish. Fine. NEAL MARTIN
Very pretty - but these are smaller and more guarded aromatics today. But beautiful in the mouth - that's pure and mineral. Excellent wine - today just a nose short of a great wine - lovely chalky finish too… BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
OUTSTANDING - An elegant and airy nose freely reveals its aromas of lemon-lime, tidal pool and spice-inflected pear and apple scents. The super-sleek, intense and equally attractively textured flavors culminate in a bone-dry, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. This could use more depth but the potential is clearly present. I would add that this refined effort is quite classy. BURGHOUND
$110.00 As low as $99.00 -
Servin Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin 2023The 2023 Chablis Vaucoupin 1er Cru was bottled earlier like the Les Fôrets this year. But I find more delineation and tension here, touches of flint underlying the citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced with a keen line of acidity. NEAL MARTIN
A vibrant minerality - another with a small touch of reduction. Direct, melting, fresh and mineral - this melts really well over the palate. Direct, melting, lovely finishing - that's going to be super in 2-3 years time. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
$99.00 As low as $89.10 -
Servin Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2023 375mlA good breadth and weight of aroma. A nicely incisive start, mobile, nicely energetic and mouthwatering - there's a modest but present dry extract in this lovely finish too. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
The mildly exotic aromas of ripe orchard, including white and yellow peach, apricot, lychee and passion fruit, are cut with citrus and tidal pool nuances. There is once again fine volume and excellent richness to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess a subtle minerality on the bone-dry, youthfully austere and borderline tannic finish. At least a few years of cellaring should be beneficial. BURGHOUND
$60.00 As low as $54.00 -
Servin Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2023The 2023 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is matured in used barrels. It has a well-defined bouquet with a little more bite and nervosité compared to the Montée de Tonnerre. The palate is well balanced with a crisp line of acidity. The sapid finish lingers in the mouth. NEAL MARTIN
Larger in scale and freshness - this is very pretty and inviting. Incisive even after the Vaucoupin - so open and detailed today - that's a beauty - fading very slowly. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
Discreet though perceptible wood sets off the ripe aromas of lemon confit, white flower, iodine and shellfish. The mouthfeel of the medium weight is punchy but seductive while delivering evident power on the clean and nicely dry finale. This also could use better depth so at least a few years of keeping should be helpful. BURGHOUND
$105.00 As low as $94.50 -
Servin Chablis Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2023 375mlThe 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is sourced from a vineyard that is gradually producing lower yields. It is matured entirely in tank. It has a fragrant bouquet with light apricot and peach skin aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, and a touch of reduction. Peach and touches of pineapple emerge toward the finish. Fine. NEAL MARTIN
Very pretty - but these are smaller and more guarded aromatics today. But beautiful in the mouth - that's pure and mineral. Excellent wine - today just a nose short of a great wine - lovely chalky finish too… BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
OUTSTANDING - An elegant and airy nose freely reveals its aromas of lemon-lime, tidal pool and spice-inflected pear and apple scents. The super-sleek, intense and equally attractively textured flavors culminate in a bone-dry, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. This could use more depth but the potential is clearly present. I would add that this refined effort is quite classy. BURGHOUND
$62.00 As low as $55.80 -
Servin Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2023The 2023 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru is aged in regular used barrels, two to three-years old mainly. I find this more enticing than the Blanchots at the moment, with more delineation and mineralité, touches of wilted white flowers and an attractive leesy element. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little waxy in texture. Hints of almond and even white chocolate are deftly interwoven on the finish. Excellent. NEAL MARTIN
Higher tones, some white flower complexity here too - it's a super invitation. Scale - this really fills the mouth. Almost a small zesty bitter for texture. A flavour that holds excellently… BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
The ripe and agreeably fresh aromas of green fruit, essence of pear and tidal pool are trimmed in moderate wood toast. There is better mid-palate density to the more powerful and muscular flavors that possess a generous mouthfeel before tightening up on the impressively persistent if slightly rustic finale. This built-to-age Bougros has the structure to repay at least a decade of keeping, perhaps even a bit more if you enjoy well-aged Chablis. BURGHOUND
$185.00 As low as $166.50 -
Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2023The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is raised in used barrels. The nose here is much more reticent than the Bougros, demanding coaxing from the glass. Given a few swirls, eventually, it offers quite attractive yellow fruit, beeswax and lanolin scents. The palate is well balanced with a more exotic white peach and apricot. This more-of-a-crowd-pleasing Les Clos doesn't possess the acidity of the previous vintage, but there is certainly weight and length NEAL MARTIN
A little more energy, still with white flowers and the merest suggestion of a reduction. Scale - more juicy - the reduction very like those of the Pargues and Vaucoupin. The finish of the largest scale today - complex, almost granular, and only a small accent of barrel noted here… BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
Moderate wood frames more prominent floral influence on the aromas of algae, citrus confit and oyster shell. The succulent yet nicely tension-filled broad-shouldered flavors are quite rich and generously proportioned where the wood telegraphed by the nose is picked up by the solidly long and borderline chewy finale that is refreshingly dry BURGHOUND
$215.00 As low as $193.50 -
Servin Chablis Grand Cru Preuses 2022The 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is matured entirely in used barrels, the youngest two years old. The nose has a very appealing sense of cohesion, a subtle grilled hazelnut scent coming through with time. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly honeyed entry, citrus peel and orange pith. It fans out impressively towards the finish and feels very persistent in the mouth. This will tangle with the Bougros for supremacy once in bottle. NEAL MARTIN
A pretty nose, it may be tighter but there are some pretty flowers on this nose. Great shape in the mouth, supple, moreishly flavoured wine. Persistent, wide and slightly saline - but comfortably saline. That's excellent Preuses. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
$185.00 As low as $166.50 -
Servin Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots 2022The 2022 Chablis Blanchot Grand Cru, taken from tank as usual, has quite a classical bouquet with sea spray/oyster shell scents percolating through the citrus fruit. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, one of the more elegant Grand Crus from Servin with an approachable, open finish. Very fine NEAL MARTIN
WORTH A SPECIAL SEARCH - A narrow nose with a hint of structural strictness. Ooh - super shape the strictness follows into the structure here - then a wonderfully finishing minerality. No supple, rich grand cru here - this is a great Chablis. BILL NANSON, Burgundy Report
$185.00 As low as $166.50 -
Servin Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2022The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, matured in tank without any barrels, has a more complex bouquet than the Blanchot, more fruit depth with dried apricot and yellow flower scents, and impressive vitality and tension. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine bead of acidity counterbalancing the slightly honeyed fruit and hints of melon and mango towards the harmonious finish. This is going to be superb. NEAL MARTIN$185.00 As low as $166.50