Rudderless

Its a long story how Doug Govan, owner of the Victory Hotel (circa 1858), came to choose the name Rudderless for his vineyard adjacent to the hotel. The vineyard, divided between shiraz, graciano, grenache, malbec, mataro and viognier, surrounds the hotel, which is situated in the foothills of the Southern Willunga Escarpment as it falls into the sea. The wines have had significant international success; partly because he can sell most of the wine through the Victory Hotel, and partly a laid back attitude, he has kept a low profile. JAMES HALLIDAY