Ronchi di Cialla

In the annals of Italian wines most important producers, the unique Ronchi di Cialla in Friuli's Colli Orientali, is one of the greats. The Rapuzzi family have single-handedly resurrected the indigenous Schioppettino variety. At the same time they've made it to such a high quality level that it has become their icon, their shining star and one Italy's greatest and most singular wines. 

Ronchi di Cialla was born in 1970 when Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi opted for a lifestyle change away from the corporate life. Arriving at their new purchase, Paolo starts to research the wine and varieties of the area. Having read several historical texts he notices the frequent mention of Schioppettino. After asking around he realises that his area contains the only remaining stands of the variety, maybe 30 rows maximum and now only grown out of respect for the history.

At the same time he also quickly notices that the variety isn't even registered with the Department of Agriculture and should he make a monovarietal wine from it, he risks jail. Clearly it's a serious business in Italy! Undeterred, he pushes on selecting and planting 3500 vines - an illegal vineyard to make an illegal wine!
….From here, the rest is history and apart from an earthquake destroying their winery in 1976 their unique bottlings spur others to plant it and Schioppettino is now regarded as one of Italy's most significant northern varieties. Only in Italy!!

What's it like? It's a bit different and the key to understanding this variety (and I'm no expert) pivots around a couple of things. It hates heat and when it's hot, it loses its telltale cracked peppercorn, rosebuds and smoke aromatic. It's thin-skinned and the skins are particular, in that they contain a molecule called rotundane. At this point I'll defer to Ian D'Agata who wrote one of the best wine articles you'll ever read about the family and variety. He writes of this pecularity, (it's) a molecule also associated with Grüner Veltliner and Vespolina that characterizes wines with a strong spicy, peppery note, a well-made Schioppettino is a thing of beauty. Despite its looks, in the right hands Schioppettino is able to weave an uncanny amount of liquid magic.

Now in the hands of sons Ivan and Pierpaolo (as well as Dina), they have continued to build on the legacy that Schioppettino has gifted them with amazingly good results with Friuli staples like Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo and Picolit. For example, the Ciallabianco is a blend of the aforementioned white varieties and it's beautifully smoky, bee-wax and yellow plum and flowers is wonderful. 

It has taken me some time to convince the Rapuzzi family to consider exporting the wines to Australia and those who know their reputation are very excited to have seen them on our shelves already. Schioppettino is a resurrection story Lazarus would be proud of and its unique expression is what makes wine exciting and diverse. It may not necessarily be for everyone but I love that Italy finds a place for this to exist and then champions it. 

Outside of Schioppettino though there's so much to love here. The whites are beautiful and unique, in both sweet and dry guise and the other "simpler" red is lithe, perfumed and delicious. 

I'd urge you to have a crack at these. Michael McNamara