What distinguished Rippon from the plethora of other (Central Otago producers)? Essentially they adhered to everything that I seek in Pinot Noir: not alcohol or even fruit intensity, but precision, delineation, harmony and nervosité. Pinot Noir should be like an atom, vibrating with tension until it comes into contact with your palate whereupon its nucleus of flavours, its nuances and its translation of terroir should be "unlocked". Furthermore it should not only tap into the sensory faculties. A truly great Pinot goes beyond that and forms a spiritual, profound experience and I think Rippon's wines are just beginning to move into that phase. NEAL MARTIN

Nick Mills has a brilliant winemaking CV having worked with Nicolas Potel, Benjamin Leroux, JJ Confuron, Pascal Marchand and Aubert de Villaine (DRC) in Burgundy and Albert Mann in Alsace. PWS