Rippon’s 2020 Pinot Noir New Releases - What offer could top this?
MATURE VINES - Crunchy yet velvety and caressing in the mouth-feel from the lovely, open tannins. (97) JAMES SUCKLING
EMMA’S BLOCK - Articulate. Seductive (98) JAMES SUCKLING
TINKER’S FIELD - It's complete and moving to taste now. Drinkable even now, but try to be patient. Best after 2026, but already stunning. (99) JAMES SUCKLING
These wines are seriously incredible with age. Ever tried one old? You should. Epic. One of the great producers of anywhere, with one of the greatest views over their wonderful site. But we know that. MIKE BENNIE, The Wine Front
What distinguished Rippon from the plethora of other (Central Otago producers)? Essentially, they adhered to everything that I seek in Pinot Noir: not alcohol or even fruit intensity, but precision, delineation, harmony and nervosité. Pinot Noir should be like an atom, vibrating with tension until it comes into contact with your palate whereupon its nucleus of flavours, its nuances and its translation of terroir should be "unlocked". Furthermore, it should not only tap into the sensory faculties. A truly great Pinot goes beyond that and forms a spiritual, profound experience and I think Rippon's wines are just beginning to move into that phase. NEAL MARTIN, Vinous
These wines really open-up after a few years in bottle, developing gracefully into some of the longest living Pinots currently coming out of New Zealand. Though this estate may be somewhat under the mainstream radar, it comes highly recommended by me! LISA PEROTTI-BROWN, The Wine Advocate
"2020 is like a fresh, low metabolism year I would say," says Nick Mills, owner/winemaker, with smaller yields and a cooler vintage. "The wines are like the farm voice. It's a Steiner version of terroir, the farm individuality. We farm the land, which has its own individuality. The expression is something we can taste and feel," explains Nick. – from ERIN LARKIN, Wine Advocate
Nick Mills, what a bloke. I think I owe him a beer for all the great Pinot I have drunk that he has made. Honestly, who is making better Pinot in the Southern Hemisphere today? No, seriously, hit me up with a list of contenders. It would be, in my mind, a very short list. A few in Oz, a couple in NZ. It’s a handful of producers that are hitting these kinds of heights.
I believe it is also the most photographed winery in the world, or something like that, I remember reading it somewhere once. I have no idea how they would know that, but I can tell you the view from there is absolutely stunning. But the wines are what makes this place truly special.
If you don’t know the story then here is the abridged version. Resting atop a rise, overlooking the majestic Lake Wanaka, Rippon was first planted way back in 1975, only a few rows to begin with. Their first commercial release was back in 1989.
Today the estate is still run by the family and their dedication to this gorgeous piece of land is quite remarkable, strolling through their vines and talking to the team you get a sense of how deep the connection to their soil is. Biodynamics kicked off here before it was a buzz word. The concept of terroir is their primary focus, everything is done to capture the essence of their soils, the clean Wanaka air and the pristine environment in which this remarkable estate is located. Every decision, every action, it is all directed towards unlocking the secrets of this spot and transferring them in to their wines with as much clarity as possible.
As for the talent, well, Nick has honed his skills in some of the world’s greatest domaines, including Nicolas Potel, Benjamin Leroux, JJ Confuron, Pascal Marchand and Aubert de Villaine (DRC) in Burgundy and Albert Mann in Alsace. Working in places like this by no means ensures you will become a great winemaker, but it doesn’t hurt either.
What really sets Nick up as one of the NZs good and great is his genuine dedication to Rippon in all its multifaceted parts. The farming, not just the vines but ensuring the entire property is healthy and well. The winemaking, simple but focused on coaxing as much from their little spot in paradise as possible. Then, and this may be an overlooked facet of what Nick does, his communication, his willingness to exceed what is necessary to ensure that people understand what they are looking to achieve at Rippon.
It remains one of my favourite wineries. Their wonderfully articulated Pinots can achieve a gut wrenching beauty with time. Something soulful emerges from these wines if given requisite cellar time, something that speaks of the confluence of factors that contributes to their greatness and the uniqueness of their place. Their Riesling is one of the best in NZ too, which is no easy thing to achieve. Gewurtz with texture, depth and vivacity. Nick and his family craft wines that excel in every fashion.
We haven’t had Rippon for a little while, and it is no exaggeration to say that the PWS lifers are all devotees of the wines. So, it is rather special to be able to offer these again to everyone.
there is a little more of the Mature Vines, which for a good while was the only Pinot they made and is still the reference point for the domaine.
I encourage everyone to buy as much of these as you can and lock them in your cellar for a period. The only bottle of Rippon you will ever regret drinking is the last one you have.
