EN PRIMEUR
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Provenance Henty Chardonnay 2023
DOZEN: $594.00 or $49.50 each
Whole-bunch pressed; partial mlf and barrel fermented, matured in 30% new oak. A really bright green gold. Pure fruited and precise with its bouquet of perfectly ripened white peach, lemon verbena and a hint of white flowers. The oak has been swallowed up by the fruit. Just as good on the medium-bodied, chalky textured and nicely structured palate. Finishes saline and long. A lovely wine and the pick of the three regional chardonnays, for me, this year. (97) PHILLIP RICH, James Halliday's Wine Companion
If served blind I would think this was a different producer. It's tight. It's got a green apple feel, like biting in to a ripe Granny Smith. Almost a crunch to the fruit. Feels really clean and clear. The winemaking doesn't play such a role here, but no idea if there is any difference in the approach. Pure, fresh, upbeat, it seems a little reserved, introverted even, compared to the others. Qualitatively I think they are all on par, but if you asked me which my favourite was, I'd say one of the others, now. I bet my bottom dollar if we laid them all out in 5-8 years and asked again, this would be the one. It's impeccably well put together. Not a stitch out of place, all composed and neatly packaged.
This is my kind of wine. This is better than excellent. There's a serenity to this which I can't help but admire. Well done! ROSCOE