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Bollinger

This Ay-based Négociant has the considerable advantage over many other houses of owning 150ha of its own vines and therefore being able to rely on a core of first-class raw materials on which it builds its wines, especially the reserves (stored painstakingly in magnums under cork) and the top cuvees. ANDREW JEFFORD, The New France

Classic, Pinot-dominated Champagnes of great potential longevity and complexity, Bollinger tends to go toasty rather than biscuity, due no doubt to the influence of oak, rather than of Chardonnay, which plays a relatively minor role. TOM STEVENSON