Pio Cesare

Pio Cesare is one of Barolo's historic wineries. Over the last few years, Pio Cesare has undergone a pretty remarkable transformation back to a much more classic style of winemaking. Today, the Barberas speak of fruit, not oak, while the Barbarescos and Barolos are more traditionally leaning than they have been in many, many years. Readers need only to taste the 2010 Barolo Ornato to get a sense of where things are heading. Once a virtually black, oaky Barolo built on pure concentration, today the Ornato is starting to tell a real story of place. How great of a vineyard is Ornato? No one really can know for sure yet, but if proprietor Pio Boffa keeps making wines like his 2010 we will have at least some idea in the near future. ANTONIO GALLONI