Papagiannakos
Founded in 1919, Domaine Papagiannakos is 30 km from Athens in the region of Attica. The family-owned vineyards are planted mostly with the Savatiano grape variety. According to the producer, ‘the landscape and terroir of the Attican vineyards, the climate (mild winters and hot dry summers assisted by the sea breeze) create the ideal terroir for Savatiano’. The variety is much maligned due to the excessive doses of resin used to improve poor quality Saviatiano in the past and yet it is capable of producing some very interesting wine and even a good Retsina, as Domaine Papagiannakos has proved, even to a sceptic like me. JANCIS ROBINSON MW