If you want to understand the type of a vintage or even the taste of soil types in wine, Rebholz is and remains a first address. These wines, as slender as they are elegant and yet also compact and complex, are devoid of ornamentation and as clear and cool as Scandinavia at the winter solstice… The wines are always graded down from the top, so that the village wines are de facto once-graded crus, the so-called estate wines twice-graded crus. The family domaine no longer has any simple sites anyway. All plots of the total of 26 hectares of biodynamically farmed vines (Respekt certification) are located in the best sites and vineyards. Not much has changed here since the twins Hans and Valentin Rebholz moved in a few years ago, at least not with the Riesling. The Rebholz style seems untouchable, and that's a good thing. STEPHAN REINHARDT, the wine advocate