The wines of Fighting Gully Road have always been good but in recent times they’ve taken significant steps forward by my reckoning. CAMPBELL MATTINSON

Mark Walpole - 2024 VITICULTURIST OF THE YEAR - JAMES HALLIDAY WINE COMPANION

5 STAR WINERY – JAMES HALLIDAY WINE COMPANION

TOP WINERIES OF AUSTRALIA - THE REAL REVIEW

Beechworth is one of Victoria's greatest gems, stunningly captivating, especially at this time of year. The small, historic town produces some of the country’s best wines. The rugged hills see the benefits of altitude with cooling breezes from the Victorian Alps. Teamed with summer sunshine and mineral-rich soils, it’s no wonder the region has a reputation for long-lasting quality wines. 

Mark Walpole is Fighting Gully Road. He was crowned Australia's viticulturist of the year for 2024. He established his vineyard back in 1995 after a long stint at Brown Brothers where he became the pioneer of ‘alternative varieties’ (eg. sangiovese). To quote Campbell Mattinson “through his work with all manner of both obscure and classic varieties…(he) is at every turn both inspiring and significant.” 

Mark is a progressive farmer; continuously modifying, learning, and improving. Wines of this quality cannot be made without the attention to detail he applies in the vineyard and the results speak for themselves. Of course, the chardonnay, but also the Sangiovese wins awards and medals frequently. It is Mark's meticulous but hands-off approach in the vineyard and winery that has led to his (and his wines’) many successes.

The 2023 Fighting Gully Road sangiovese is very much Australian but wears a high-end designer Italian jacket. Its depth and ripeness harmoniously support the structure of the wine. Wow the tannins! This is unmistakenly Sangiovese. The clones used are from Chianti Classico, plus with a sprinkle of Tuscan variety, colorino, giving a little extra oomph to the wine. It is matured in large Italian-coopered casks.

2023 was a cracker of a vintage in Beechworth. It had all the right things quality-focused producers could hope for. A sunny frost-free Spring led to a slow but long ripening season giving densely flavoured, concentrated wines with ripe but delicate tannins. All is in check thanks to the beautifully balanced mouth-watering acidity.     

I visited the old asylum where the wines are made a couple of years back. It was truffle season, how convenient! Did you know Fighting Gully Road was the first to grow truffles on the mainland? I bought some and a bottle of Sangiovese. I could say I was closing my eyes and dreaming of being in Italy. But why would I imagine being anywhere else other than in Beechworth with a full glass of Fighting Gully Road?

This is the best version of sangiovese found outside of Tuscany (gasp!) and easily challenges a lot of Chianti’s on the market, for that matter. This is downright delicious and deserves a spot on everyone's table this winter. There are no reviews yet, the wines sell out before the critics release them but last year's got a whopping 96 gold by Wine Companion if you need a reference.