l'Arlot NSG & Vosne Romanee 2023
It’s nice to see how Géraldine has settled in at the domaine following the departure of Jacques Devauges to Clos de Tart and is now possibly making their best wines ever. NEAL MARTIN, wineadvocate.com
A few domaines have captured my attention in recent vintages. Among this group is Domaine de L’Arlot, just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. A domaine where the style has evolved significantly since Geraldine Godot began making the wine in 2015. She is the forth in a succession of winemakers appointed by Christian Seely, managing director for AXA Millésimes vineyard group which bought the 15 hectare domaine in 1987. Seely gave Geraldine a free hand, encouraging her to follow her initiative, and this has paid dividends. SARAH MARSH MW
You’ll find great purity of fruit here and graceful elegance, rather than muscle and power. They model Pinot Noir, burgundy-style, to perfection. ANDREW JEFFORD, The New France
One needs to be familiar with the Clos de l’Arlot to see its worth. Jean-Pierre de Smet (previous owner) was inclined to be dismissive of its merits when he arrived at the domaine, but by the time he retired he was smitten…You have to search for the fruit, but somehow the perfume lingers, even after tasting, for an unexpectedly long time. This shows too in the bottle, with the wine gaining in structure and complexity over 10-15 years. JASPER MORRIS MW
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We have a tiny allocation of Domaine de l'Arlot's 2023 Burgundies. They are among the Cote de Nuits' most sought-after wines, produced in minute quantities, built to age beautifully, and rarely seen in Australia. Better still, two of the wines come from monopoles, vineyards owned entirely by a single domaine - a true rarity in Burgundy.
We hadn't seen the wines in a few years but our tasting table was graced by their presence this week. If you're after showy Burgundies that lure with bells and whistles, these are not for you. If you value understated grace, intrigue, perfume encased in a framework of silty tannins then read on.
Domaine de l'Arlot has long been one of Burgundy's quiet overachievers. In the 1980s, co-owner Jean-Pierre de Smet helped transform the estate after working alongside Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac for almost a decade. Today, the domaine boasts one of the Côte d'Or's most enviable collections of vineyards: the monopoles Clos de l'Arlot and Clos des Forêts Saint Georges, the extraordinarily rare white Nuits-Saint-Georges, a parcel in Suchots, and Grand Cru Romanee-Saint-Vivant, nestled between La Tache and Romanee-Conti. These are blue-chip sites, farmed biodynamically for decades, where every decision is made to let the vineyard speak.
Since taking the reins in 2015, Geraldine Godot has elevated the wines to another level. Her philosophy is one of restraint: less extraction, less new oak and, in 2023, no whole bunches at all. The result is Pinot Noir of remarkable transparency, allowing each vineyard's personality to shine. As Andrew Jefford writes, "You'll find great purity of fruit here and graceful elegance, rather than muscle and power. They model Pinot Noir, Burgundy-style, to perfection."
The 2023 vintage captures that philosophy beautifully. Alcohols sit at a modest 13–13.5%, giving the wines freshness, precision and effortless balance. They are expressive without excess, combining fragrance, purity and an undercurrent of structure while nailing the unmistakable character of some of Burgundy's finest terroirs.
Cheers
Gabrielle Poy
PRODUCTS IN THIS OFFER
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Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l'Arlot Blanc 2023… fine energy and delineation, touches of Anjou pear emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a lovely texture, a little honeyed, though not overtly tropical with a delicate touch of spice that enlivens the finish, hints of peach skin on the aftertaste. This might well surpass the previous vintage. NEAL MARTIN
Complex mineral and flint aromas are supported by layers of white flowers, lemon pith, orange blossoms and profound chalkiness. The palate is medium-bodied with energetic acidity and a vivid mouthfeel, giving a chewy sensation, a mouthwatering finish and a steely, granitic aftertaste. Excellent energy and complexity from a site that also produces refined reds. Delicious. JAMES SUCKLING
Special Price $435.00 Regular Price $510.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Mont des Oiseaux 2023from young vines Clos l'Arlot
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru, matured in 35% new oak, has an elegant, quite mineral-driven bouquet that is vivacious and charming (like the 2022). The palate is silky smooth on the entry, very well balanced and unerringly pure, with a light yet energetic finish that has just the right amount of piquancy. This is an underrated cuvée from the Domaine that should not be overlooked. NEAL MARTIN
Special Price $289.00 Regular Price $340.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l'Arlot 2023Monopole
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de l'Arlot 1er Cru has a vibrant bouquet that one might mistake for containing some stems-slightly darker fruit, with a touch of seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry, very well balanced and elegant in style, with a harmonious and persistent finish. Quite seductive. NEAL MARTINFresh and pure aromas of red cherries, citrus peel, ferric earth, dried herbs and cured meat with a reductive edge. The palate is bright and focused, with energetic acidity and a textural mouthfeel, giving vivid flavors of red and blue fruit and a savory edge. Very approachable, with great aging potential. JAMES SUCKLING
Special Price $389.00 Regular Price $460.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 2023Monopole planted in the early 1950s
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 1er Cru has a detailed and complex bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, a subtle estuarine influence and light graphite scents that surface with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with dark berry fruit. This is the most opulent and richest of the cuvées from the Domaine, attributable to the terroir. A dash of white pepper and allspice lingers on the finish. Excellent. NEAL MARTIN
Spice- and earth-driven with a lovely restrained edge, giving aromas of cherries, bark, blood oranges, charcuterie, dried rose petals and graphite. The palate is chewy and tactile, with firmly framed tannins and focused acidity, finishing with a mineral undertone. There is a lot of complexity and character to come with more time in the bottle. JAMES SUCKLING
Special Price $389.00 Regular Price $460.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 2023 1500mlMonopole planted in the early 1950s
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 1er Cru has a detailed and complex bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, a subtle estuarine influence and light graphite scents that surface with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with dark berry fruit. This is the most opulent and richest of the cuvées from the Domaine, attributable to the terroir. A dash of white pepper and allspice lingers on the finish. Excellent. NEAL MARTIN
Spice- and earth-driven with a lovely restrained edge, giving aromas of cherries, bark, blood oranges, charcuterie, dried rose petals and graphite. The palate is chewy and tactile, with firmly framed tannins and focused acidity, finishing with a mineral undertone. There is a lot of complexity and character to come with more time in the bottle. JAMES SUCKLINGSpecial Price $785.00 Regular Price $925.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 2023 375mlMonopole planted in the early 1950s
The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges 1er Cru has a detailed and complex bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, a subtle estuarine influence and light graphite scents that surface with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with dark berry fruit. This is the most opulent and richest of the cuvées from the Domaine, attributable to the terroir. A dash of white pepper and allspice lingers on the finish. Excellent. NEAL MARTIN
Spice- and earth-driven with a lovely restrained edge, giving aromas of cherries, bark, blood oranges, charcuterie, dried rose petals and graphite. The palate is chewy and tactile, with firmly framed tannins and focused acidity, finishing with a mineral undertone. There is a lot of complexity and character to come with more time in the bottle. JAMES SUCKLINGSpecial Price $207.00 Regular Price $245.00 -
Domaine de l'Arlot Romanee St Vivant 20232 BOTTLES ONLY
Wedged between La Tache and Romanee Conti
The 2023 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet that blossoms in the glass. Dark cherries, touches of violet and iodine just soar with aeration-wonderfully delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins and a killer line of acidity, very harmonious through the linear and poised finish. This is quite understated for an RSV. Lovely. NEAL MARTIN
This wine exudes the finesse and class of this grand cru. Aromas of blue and red fruit, flowers and stony minerality with a savory undertone coming form a hint of reduction. The palate is seamlessly integrated, with silky tannins and a textural, silky mouthfeel. This is everything you could expect and more from the 2023 vintage. Truly excellent. Drink now or lay down for decades; either decision is the right one. JAMES SUCKLINGSpecial Price $2,455.00 Regular Price $2,905.00