Gravner's legendary wine, the most sought after skin contact wine of Italy, DECANTER

While orange wines have been made in Georgia for a long time, it is no exaggeration to say that the revival of high-quality orange wine all over the world was largely due to a man from the Friuli Venezia Giulia region of Italy, Josko Gravner. Prior to his becoming keenly interested in this way of making wine, what had been going on in Georgia and thereabouts was not exactly the talk of the wine town. But the excellence of the wines made by the Graver winery and the man’s credibility and fame focused attention on this winemaking style leading to orange wine becoming not just interesting but downright fashionable. Ultimately, with so many estates picking up the “orange wine challenge”, so to speak, Gravner also made it so that orange wines became more accessible to wine lovers all over the world.  IAN D’AGATA

Josko Gravner's Ribolla Gialla is not only a captivating, class-defining and skin-deep white wine, but also the one that has made him a cult winemaker and can be found on every cutting-edge wine list around the globe. Every sip brings with it unfathomable depth, curiosity and intoxicating opulence, opening up new dimensions of flavour every hour. With more than 50 vintages, no one but Josko knows how long they will continue to make wine. That's why we always advise buying these rare wines while they last! LUCA GIARDINI

There can be no doubt that Miani’s Ribolla Gialla Pettarin is not just the best Ribolla Gialla wine made in Italy, but an argument can be made that it may well be Italy’s best white wine, period (Gravner’s is just as good, but is a completely different wine such that a fair, even logical, comparison between the two is impossible). IAN D’AGATA

I will not easily forget the first time, in 2019, I saw the cellar of Josko Gravner, the iconic Friulian winemaker famous for being the first to use qvevri, the then exotic Georgian clay vessels (which Gravner prefers to call anfora). They are now hugely popular, not only in Italy but in much of the wine world. Four metres under the earth in Oslavia, a beautiful, tranquil corner in the far east of Friuli right on the border with Slovenia, a part of Central Europe which saw its social and cultural fabric ripped apart by two world wars and the Iron Curtain, Gravner has turned his philosophy literally into stone. WALTER SPELLER

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In my eyes Gravner make the best orange wine in the world. They haven’t jumped on a trend, they led it. Well in actual fact Josko Gravner was inspired by the wines of Georgia and has spent a long time there learning and questioning. Based in Friuli on the Italy/Slovenia border, their vineyards lie in both countries.

Gravner is revered worldwide and locally. Fellow Friulian winemaker Podversic commented ‘Gravner for me will always be the guru, he was the first to go back.’ Going back refers to Gravner adopting traditional viticulture and winemaking methods. No sprays or chemicals are used in the vineyard and the wines are fermented in qveri (large terracotta pots) and buried underground to maintain temperature control.

This wasn’t always the case, when Gravner graduated from uni in the 80s he promoted international varietals, stainless steel and new oak. He came full circle, reverting back to the way his father and grandfather made wine.

Time, hard work and belief are the zeitgeist of Gravner. In the cellar, the wine is fermented and macerated on skins in buried qveri (amphora) for many months. After that it is aged in large Slavonian casks for seven years. Walking around in the cellar it’s eerily stoic and simple, here are Walter Speller’s thoughts:

‘That cellar is key to understanding the wine as well as its creator. It is neither radical nor extremist, as has been described by some, but minimalist – the consequence of Gravner’s rejection of any compromise in order to get to the bare essence of wine. But to know exactly what the essence is, you first have to run the whole mile.’
 

It’s a family affair, Josko's daughter Mateja is in charge of marketing and often travels. Tragically his son died many years ago in a motorcycle accident, but recently Mateja's son has started working at the estate which brings renewed hope for the continuation of these singular wines. Rest assured, Josko is a strong character and is still at the helm.

Today we’re offering his ribolla gialla, a native white Friulian grape. The current release is 2016 and we also have some of his previous release from 2015. Their stability means they have the potential to age for decades. 2016 was a longer, more even keeled vintage resulting in elegant wines while 2015 was warmer and the wines are riper and richer.

It is one of a kind, unique and mesmerising in its delivery. To be honest, when you’re at the winery surrounded by the family, qveri and bucolic vineyards and listening to their unique ways and beliefs I thought maybe I was just drinking the Kool-Aid. Yet I’ve tried this wine quite a few times in different settings and each time I’m struck how singular, delicious and defiant it is.

In fact, I went searching for some drinkers reviews, not critics, to see what they thought. This one from a Cellartrack customer nails it, ‘My first Gravner and it was totally mind bending. Raw honey, caramel, and sweet white flowers on the nose. On the palate, butterscotch and ripe apricot and white peaches that turned into this incredible tannic underbrush-y earthiness that I have only ever experienced with red wine. Really special!

These are not wines to be drunk quickly. They take a long time in the glass to open and a piece of hard cheese and a plate of cured meats is a perfect companion.

As you can imagine they are rare. Finding a bottle in Italy is damn hard, let alone over here. If you are chasing a classically styled, fruit centric Italian white, these are not for you. But if you’d like to take a magic carpet ride on wine, choose these.

Cheers

Gabrielle Poy