Il Marroneto

Il Marroneto, a tiny six-hectare estate on the northern side of Montalcino, has emerged as a major player in just about the last decade. Alessandro Mori crafts uncompromisingly traditional Brunellos of real pedigree. The straight Brunello is a bit more classically austere than the Madonna delle Grazie parcel selection, which is richer, deeper and darker. Readers who have not tasted these Brunellos yet owe it to themselves to do so. ANTONIO GALLONI

Madonna delle Grazie is to Sangiovese what the Chapel of St. Christopher on the hill of Hermitage is to Syrah (except on a much smaller scale). This exceptional vineyard site on the steep, northern side of the appellation belongs to vintner Alessandro Mori who has recently emerged as one of the most talented winemakers in Montalcino. His expertise resides in his ability to allow Sangiovese to find its own voice. This is no small feat. His quality fruit, old vines and non-interventionist winemaking style are the secret to his success. There are no bells or whistles. MONICA LARNER