Heymann Lowenstein
Löwenstein, a left-leaning child of the late 1960s in politics and temperament, has been the grower overwhelmingly responsible during the 1990s and early 21st century for bringing to the attention of Riesling lovers the unique character and profound potential conveyed by the ancient terraces – dauntingly steep even by Mosel standards – that hug the last dozen or so miles of the Mosel before it empties into the Rhine at Koblenz. Over the past half-dozen years, Löwenstein has gradually been securing a protected legal status (and attendant labeling rights) for the specific geologically and microclimatically distinct vineyards that he showcases. And speaking of labeling with initials, although Löwenstein has taken a leading role in the VDP, he criticizes its having deliberately muddled together the establishment of a dominant wine style and the classification of vineyards, so although each of the top Heymann-Löwenstein wines now prominently proclaims that it originates in a “Grosse Lage,” the letters “GG” are buried in minuscule print amid a crowd of required information. DAVID SCHILDKNECT, Vinous Media
A visit to the cellars of Heyman Lowenstein is quite something, certainly unforgettable. The building itself is worth taking a look at if you are ever in the region but what really makes this place standout is, of course, the wines. These are idiosyncratic, highly personal and unbelievably beautiful expressions of Riesling. There is a slight twist on all their wines that really draw you in, they are ripe, plusher than many, textural and can have a little grip to them (as is the case again with the 16s from a brief pre ferment maceration). Perhaps on release they are not the most alluring wines to taste but anyone who has tried them after a little time in bottle can attest to the fact that it only takes a short period before their inner beauty starts to shine and from then on they can develop in to something entirely unique and wonderfully special. I urge everyone who hasn’t tried these wines before to buy a selection and put them aside for a few years, believe me you will thank me for it. ROSCOE
