OUTSTANDING. There is a background hint of matchstick character on the cool, airy and elegant nose of mostly green apple, citrus and floral nuances. The super-sleek and chiseled flavors aren't as dense but they're clearly finer with a texture that is akin to rolling a small pebble around the mouth on the balanced, long and very dry finale. This is also first-rate for the appellation and one to strongly consider. BURGHOUND

The 2023 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Clos du Four has a well-defined bouquet with fine mineralité, opening with red apples and a touch of tinned peach and becoming more floral. The palate is well balanced with a sapid entry, grapefruit and light lime cordial notes and a touch of white pepper on the finish. Lovely. NEAL MARTIN