Girolamo Russo Etna Contrade 2021

One of the quality leaders on Etna, Peppe Russo (an ex-music teacher with a degree in literature) distinguishes himself from the pack with red wines that exude uncommon levels of purity, refinement and very intense, precise sweet red fruit aromas and flavors. IAN D’AGATA, Vinous.com

 These are not loud wines, however. You want to savour them, like listening to a song written by someone who knows precisely what they’re doing. BENJAMIN NORTH SPENCER, The New Wines of Mt Etna

Giuseppe Russo makes some of the best wines on Etna. Full stop. MONICA LARNER

 

-------------------

Etna is a ‘grande originale.’ Famed winemaker of the island, Marco de Grazia refers to Etna as the “Burgundy of the Mediterranean,” alluding to the behemothic potential the smoking mountain has to express its original and singular sites.

Ancient vineyards are scattered across altitudes that range up to over a kilometre above sea level, split into communes (Contrada) that have been defined by historical lava flows dating back to 1500 BC. Each flow, depending on age, gives the Contrada everything from solid rock to black mineral sands according to rates of erosion and the nature of the original eruption. The everchanging volcanic soils are layers of lava eruptions, molten rock that has been spewed from the fuming mouth of the active volcano.

And on these volcanic slopes is where nerello mascalese thrives, a grape often compared to pinot noir – another reason it’s the Burgundy of the Mediterranean. Both have extraordinary site sensitivity. The complex volcanic soils offer a cacophony of deep dark clays, minerals and rocks which imbue different characteristics into the wines, and nerello mascalese is a perfect conduit.

The beauty and originality of these Etna Contrada have only come to light of late. Since 2005 Giuseppe Russo has been at the forefront of the Etna revolution, organically farming his family's old vineyards (some are over 100 years old). 'The 2021s are his best releases to date', declared Michael  after tasting the new releases and Monica Larner agrees ‘these are some of the best wines on Etna. Fullstop.’ 

Today we’re offering three Contrada:

Feudo di Mezzo – sits at 670m on the northern slopes of Etna. This is where you’ll find some of the younger soils of the estate – one of the lots dates back to the 1696 eruption. This is powerfully styled, riddled with earthy notes of sanguine, ferrous and smoke.

Calderara Sottano – located at 700m, the vines average 50 years. The soils are made up of two different types of rocks – one formed from a lava flow 15000 years ago, the other formed 32000 years ago. This was a new vineyard planted where they translated some of the estate's oldest vines. It’s fragrant, elegant and almost silky in its delivery of tannins.

San Lorenzo – made up of three geological formations sitting between 700 – 800m altitude. Prized old vines between 70-100 years old are the pillars of this Contrado. The wines often combine opulence with delicacy with great energy. 

2021 has produced wines with classic grip, texture and personality.  A mild and dry winter led to an early vintage with reduced yields. The old vines with their established roots led the way. These tightly wound-wines deserve time in the cellar to show their best. 

 

Cheers

Gabrielle