Giacomo Fenocchio

It was over a decade ago now when I was first introduced to the wines of Giacomo Fennochio. At the time the world was still in the thrall of more modern Baroli and the traditional styles were only just starting to emerge back into the mainstream consumer consciousness. What struck me immeidtaely was the combination of vineyard signature and transparency and the seductive aromatics and textures. Since that time I have followed the wines and have noted that small incremental changes at the cellar level have only added to the freshness and aromatic purity of the wines.

The estate - around since 1864 - covers 14 hectares, crossing some of the greatest crus in the Langhe. Cannubi, Castellero, Villero and Bussia are all represented and current steward, Claudio Fenocchio, is an enthusastc and talented advocate for the history of the area and his style. The vineyards are run organically but there is no formal certification as yet. The cellar confirms to the traditionalist handbook with longer macerations and maturaton in large Slavonian oak.

The 2013s are all true to type and after tasting at the bi-annual Grandi Langhe tastings earlier this year I was keen to see them arrive to add to the selection of traditional producers in the stable. PWS