Domaine Jean-Paul et Benoit Droin

Although Benoit Droin noted that 2015 is not as classic as 2014, he emphasized that the '15s are not like the '09s, '06s and' 03s, and that they're better balanced than the "roasted" 2005s, adding that the new vintage shows less surmaturite than those earlier hot years.  He added that he has never acidified his Chablis, even in 2003.  The 2015 malos finished early and the wines had all been assembled by the time of my visit.  Droin has been vinifying exclusively with wild yeasts since 2013.  While the 2014s show more penetrating minerality than the 2015s --and some of them may well shut down in bottle--Droin stressed that today's Chablis is rarely as austere as the wines of 20 years ago.  "Nowadays our wines have volume and acidity, and can be drunk young or old," he said.  STEPHEN TANZER vinous.com July 2016