Domaine de la Taille aux Loups

With François Chidaine, Jacky Blot has been instrumental in taking Montlouis out of Vouvray’s shadow and establishing for it a reputation of its own—and a better one at that. Much of what he has done appears old hat today, but it was revolutionary at the time: organic viticulture, hand harvests, wild yeasts, barrel fermentations and no malolactic conversions. JOEL B. PAYNE, Vinous