Domaine Boisson

This small domain in Meursault has been generating considerable buzz the past couple years, so I decided it was time for a visit. Bernard and son Pierre Boisson bottle three or four thousand cases of wine a year without making extensive use of new oak. According to Bernard, all the grapes are crushed slowly and no decanting is done after the fermentation: the juice goes straight into tonneaux with a good deal of its bourbes. STEPHEN TANZER

Much has been made of Pierre Boisson's friendship with Raphaël Coche, and the two men do appear to be thinking along similar lines: there is a palpable sense of structuring and refreshing dry extract in Boisson's wines that evoke recent vintages from Coche, and Boisson's wines also reveal an increasingly minimal presence of wood and reduction. But the wines merit respect on their own terms, as Pierre Boisson is clearly emerging as one of Meursault's ablest winemakers. I will be adding some bottles to my cellar and warmly recommend readers to do the same. WILLIAM KELLEY, Wine Advocate