David Duband

I was deeply impressed with David Duband's 2013s. The wines have always been strong, but the 2013s are of a higher level than anything I have tasted here in the past. Duband favors a high percentage of stem inclusion and at times the wines have been a bit vegetal, but the 2013s are exceptionally well-balanced, with plenty of lift from the whole clusters but no vegetal notes. According to Duband, weather conditions during July and August were poor, but the low yields on the vine were critical to ripening the fruit during what turned out to be a nearly perfect September. Readers should note that Duband shares his production with François Feuillet, so readers will find the exact same wines under both labels. ANTONIO GALLONI, April 2015