Damijan Podversic – Oslavia, Friuli
Cult Wines by a mentoree of Josko Gravner - Very Limited
Damijan Podversic represents the essence of the artisan spirit of Friuli, where quality-driven, manual labor in the vineyards and a minimalist approach in the cellar aren't choices, but rather a way of life. The whites see a period of contact on the skins and are aged in large, neutral casks such as those one might see in traditionally oriented cellars in Piedmont or Montalcino. ANTONIO GALLONI
Have the wines of Friuli-Venezia Giulia ever been as good as they are today? ERIC GUIDO, vinous.com 2023
Blood, sweat and tears. That is the phrase that comes to mind when I think of Damijan Podversic…Damijan's philosophy centers on hillside vineyards, dense crop planting, natural farming and low yields to produce the best fruit possible. ANTONIO GALLONI
The Damijan wines are very special. They are distinctive and full of character. The concentration achieved alongside a pronounced chalky nature makes you wonder. And taste, and eat, and take another sip. These are not boring, everyday wines and considering a global phenomenon has been created on the back of the success of these wines, they deserve your full attention.
In the far eastern corner of Italy, we find ourselves in Oslavia, a small subregion of Collio in Friuli, right on the border of Slovenija. We are in a very unique place, culturally between Eastern Europe and Italy due to the border and land ownership changing multiple times during devastating wars. The people, food and wines of the region are consequently beautifully peculiar.
Wines from the area are made very slowly. The quality-focused wines undergo long maceration on skins. Grape growing in Olsvalia is climatically challenging. It’s wedged between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea causing almost a push and pull of cold winds and warm currents. The regional Ponca soils (see image) are a slate and rocky calcareous marl that naturally keep yields low and provide great drainage to one of Italy's highest rainfall areas. With all these challenges, organic farming is prized and successfully practised by the top producers.
Damijan make wines that translate nature, place and season. Grapes are meticulously farmed organically, picked, and macerated on skins for an extended period of time. Large old oak for 3 years plus one year in bottle before they are released. The wines of Damijan are intensely concentrated and complex thanks to the farming and this process.
We have 3 whites on offer for you today. The 2020 pinot grigio has seen 30 days on skins. It’s a lovely floral, pretty and delicate wine with length for days. The 2020 season was very successful offering concentration with the potential for long-term ageing. The 2019 malvasia has had 60 to 90 days on skins that’s powerful and spicy. The 2019 Kaplja has seen 60-90 days on skins which is a blend of chardonnay, malvasia and friulano that has this palate coating viscosity that is a great contrast to the wonderful tannic structure.
These hunger-inducing wines have so much flavour and interest with the perfect balance of characterful grape tannins alongside richness and viscosity. These are wines for people who like adventure and excitement. People who enjoy Barolo, Sauternes and Coopers Stout. They are squeaky clean and well worth seeking out.
Cheers
Kayleen