Pat and Dianne Carmody are what you might call salts of the earth, and make literally exceptional wines that have an unusual capacity to age JANCIS ROBINSON MW
 
A winery with a proud 19th-century record, Craiglee recommenced winemaking in 1976 after a prolonged hiatus. Produces one of the finest cool climate Shirazs in Australia, redolent of cherry, licorice and spice. JAMES HALLIDAY
 
finding a Cornas or Hermitage with the same finesse and complexity as a good Craiglee Shiraz would be a frighteningly expensive exercise MAX ALLEN

What can you say about Craiglee Shiraz. It's a vinous institution, an icon, an uber-consistent banner-waver for the beauty of Australian shiraz that showcases a medium weight intensity, without heft and alcohol for a crutch. Oh, and there's the Craiglee spice - a mix of peppercorn and a whiff of bush track on a hot day sews some lace onto the side of the red and black fruit core. That is its central DNA and, while warmer or cooler vintage are allowed to sharpen or soften the lens through which you view it, these things remain at it's constant.

The latest 2020 vintage release is a beauty, one that ticks all the aforementioned style boxes, one that will get the pulse racing and bring a smile to your face. It's so unique that it always makes me think it’s the Victorian Wendouree. I love the wine. I buy it religiously. If you don’t, you’re being a fool to yourself and a burden to others. 

Of course, the long-time stewards are Pat and Dianne Carmody. They are self-effacing, no-nonsense producers who carry the air of the hard-working farmer rather than fast talking marketer. The wines speak with the same direct simplicity but, like the people, there’s plenty more to unpack at the same time. More on that later. 
The historic property (first planted in the 1840s) is at Sunbury, once a country town of farmers but now the edge of Melbourne’s urban sprawl. It is slowly but surely being hemmed in by ticky tacky suburbia which is pretty awful but also amplifies the oasis quality of this property on the Deep Creek as meanders past on its way down to meet the Maribyrnong. I drive past it on my way home most days and wonder what will happen to this beautiful piece of Australian wine history when the Carmody's decide to give it away. 

The wine itself taught me about nuance, spice, light, shade and space in wine. It taught me to understand that not all power came from alcohol and artiface and, that you could have full ripeness at 12% without sacrificing anything. It was a wine of humility and quiet power. Not dissimilar to its single-minded owner, Pat Carmody.  

The 2020 is a brilliant new release, one that immediately bought a smile to my face. In fact on a tasting day that featured over 80 wines, this bottling made my day. 

It’s nicely weighted, maybe showing a touch more ripeness but no heaviness and importantly, not to the exclusion of a waft of peppercorn spice which threads its way through the dark berry fruit. The oak is subtle and part of the balancing backbeat of the wine. It’s one of the best I’ve seen and you are dead-set mad if you don’t make room for some of this wine in your cellar. 

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Cheers

Michael McNamara