Comte Armand

The modern era began under Pascal Marchand (whose first vintage was 1985), followed by Benjamin Leroux and now Paul Zinetti, Benjamin’s second-in-command. Each has left their mark: Pascal Marchand elevated the domaine, making it the greatest Pommard estate, and Benjamin Leroux oversaw conversion to biodynamics (certified from 2005).

Since 2014, Paul Zinetti has been at the helm, and a subtle but discernible change is underway. The Clos des Epeneaux’s famous dense, rich, tannic composition, so individual and impressive, is being gently moderated towards a wine that will be accessible a little earlier, while in no way undermining the ageability of one of Burgundy’s great terroirs. JASPER MORRIS MW