Chateau de la Tour
This Domaine possesses by far the most important parcel of the grand cru Clos de Vougeot and has the privilege of being the sole producer that has its winery within the Clos itself. The quality of the grapes in the Vieilles Vignes is exceptional and their vinification in whole bunches, not destemmed, gives a wine of prodigious breeding, worthy of comparison with the greatest Richebourg. The standard cuvee, excellent also, is produced from the much younger vines. MICHEL BETTANE & THIERRY DESSEAUVE, LE GRAND GUIDE DES VINS DE FRANCE
Vine age and vineyard placement separates Chateau de la Tour from its peers. The holdings of Chateau de la Tour cover 5.48 hectares in all, including one plot of approximately a hectare of ancient vines planted in 1910. Part of this is used for a limited edition vielles vignes cuvee, typically amounting to eight barrels worth (2,400) bottles. Organically farmed since 1992 (one of the first), winemaker Francios Labet controls yields by rubbing out every second bud, producing a well-spaced out canopy. Grapes are sorted and placed in vats with 100% whole bunches, cooled to 7°C and left to begin ferment on their own at a 28°C. The juice is removed immediately after fermentation and aged in 50% new wood. These are wines of power – age worthy and arguably the definitive expression of Vougeout. JASPER MORRIS MW