Champagne Hebrart

This set of current releases from Hébrart is superb. The entry-level bottlings are delicious and very good values, while the higher-end Champagnes are incredibly distinctive. Most of the wines are done in tank, except the flagship Rive Gauche-Rive Droite and the Clos Le Léon.  Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Marc He´brart started making his own Champagne in 1962. The domaine is now run by Jean- Paul, the son of Marc, who took over in 1997. Jean-Paul tries to add to the family holdings every year, believing that even at current prices it's still a good long-term bet.

Jean Paul owns 16 hectares, 8 ha of Pinot in Mareuil-sur-Ay¨, Chardonnay in Oiry, Avize, Chouilly and Cramant, and more Pinot in Louvois and Ay¨ - as well as the Clos le Le´on in Dizy: in total 80 parcels in 11 villages.

The vineyards are farmed sustainably, with as little input as possible. Vinification is by parcel to give the widest possible palette when it comes to blending, and or course allowing for single-vineyard releases. Most of the Champagnes are made in stainless steel, but since 2004 there has been a barrel- fermented cuve´e which blends some of his Chardonnays on the Co^te de Blancs with some of his best Pinot Noirs to the north of the Marne - 'Rive Droite-Rive Gauche'.