Champagne Geoffroy

‘I am a winegrower’, says young, fifth-generations vigneron Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy. ‘I need to be in the vineyard, this is my passion’. There is a well-considered sensibility about Geoffroy, and every detail of his work in the vineyard and winery follows a stringent regime, while maintaining practical common sense. With 11 glorious hectares in Cumieres, and one in each of the nearby villages of Damery, Hautvillers and two in Fleury-la-Riviere, he is well placed to capture the fruit purity, poise and deep mineral fingerprint of some of the finer premier crus of the Callee de la Marne. The sustaining presence of malic acidity makes his champagnes particularly long-lived. TYSON STELZER