Cepparello Super Tuscan
My most recent visit to Isole e Olena was decidedly bittersweet…the sale of Isole e Olena has been quite traumatic. It’s a complex subject, the result of a mix of family dynamics and the lack of an industry structure that could support long-term stability. These factors are not unique to Isole e Olena but rather conditions that afflict all family-owned wineries in Italy… Right now, I can only advise Isole e Olena fans to snap up the 2020s, as they are magical. ANTONIO GALLONI
Sapidity, elegance, territorial expressiveness and precision: this, in extreme synthesis, is the style of the wines of Isole e Olena. SLOW WINE 2021
..Since his arrival in 1976, Paolo di Marchi has been improving the vineyards and wines, turning the estate near Castellina into one of the Chianti Classico’s standout properties. The iconic 100% Sangiovese bottling is called Cepparello and is aged in barrique. RAJ PARR, The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste
Paolo doesn’t look for power but for elegance and finesse, which are the central threads running through all his wines. When praised for his achievements, he modestly replies with a twinkle in his eyes ‘I’m just trying to do what I believe in.’ DECANTER MAGAZINE
Tuscan Vintages
2020: In tasting, the 2020s are rich, sumptuous wines… The best of these wines show terrific depth, gorgeous purity of fruit and fully ripe tannins… Today, my impression is that 2020 will turn out to be better and more consistent than the 2019s. ANTONIO GALLONI
2021: Two thousand twenty-one is the single greatest young vintage I have ever tasted in Chianti Classico. Period. Full stop. The 2021s are majestic wines endowed with striking aromatics, layered fruit and all the energy that is such a signature of the appellation. Quality is consistently high across the region, while many wines hit breathtaking peaks of excellence. ANTONIO GALLONI
2022: … The resulting reds are concentrated, rich, and highly structured, often showing ripe dark fruit with lower yields. Overall, it is considered a very successful and highly praised vintage. JANCIS ROBINSON MW
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Cepparello is the brilliant Italian disruptor. Its creator, Paolo de Marchi has built a legendary following for his estate, Isole e Olena and in particular his flagship wine, Cepparello.
First made in 1980, Cepparello was one of the original Super Tuscans. Paolo’s defiance was borne by making a wine based on 100% sangiovese – at the time the authorities stipulated it should be a blend. So why make a 100% Sangiovese wine in the 80s when everyone around you is blending with the likes of syrah, merlot or cabernet? A proud Tuscan, Paolo wanted to prove how great and age-worthy sangiovese could be on its own. He sourced the best grapes from his property in San Donato in Poggio which sees a respectable altitude that rarely drops below 300m and a beautiful mish-mash of precious Tuscan soils.
Paolo’s one of the most respected voices on Tuscan grapes and wines, but unfortunately his time at Isole has come to an end. With no heirs apparent, the iconic domain has been sold. 2020 and 2021 are the last Cepparello’s made by de Marchi.
Rest assured, it seems the new owners, led by technical director, Emanuele Reolon are aware of the gravitas of the estate. They’ve also bought legendary Montalcino estate, Biondi Santi. 2022 is your gateway to the changing of the guard. One minor tweak to date, they’ve added some larger format oak in the cellar, alongside the barriques de Marchi used.
To the vintages, both 2020 and 2022 were dry and warm injecting heady aromas and a rich scaffolding of tannins. According to Galloni, The 2021s are majestic wines endowed with striking aromatics, layered fruit and all the energy that is such a signature of the appellation,’ they should be layed down for quite a few years
This is a singular Tuscan wine with a future bright but an incredible legacy left by de Marchi. Here’s your last chance to secure wines made by the master Paolo de Marchi, one of the most influential Italian winemakers of the last half century.
Cheers
Gabrielle Poy







