Brash Higgins Wine Co.

Amongst the rapid change and re-invention that is the modern McLaren Vale, Brad Hickey and his label, Brash Higgins, have found their place. The easy-going American and his eclectic set of wines treads a careful but clever path between conventional and exploratory wine styling. In reality this means you'll find traditional Vale varieties like Grenache or Riesling alongside the less well-known Zibibbo, or workhorse Rhones like Cinsualt given more billing than its usual "blend-buddy" status usually affords. Throw in fermentation techniques that vary from the "missionary" conventional through to the use of clay amphora and some some memorable labelling and you've got yourself a fascinating set of texturally interesting, delicious wines. PWS

Move over Treasury Estates vintrepreneurs, for Brad Hickey has come up with creator and vinitor to cover his role (together with partner Nicole Thorpe) in establishing Brash Higgins. The one thing rather less clearly explained is how you move from Brad Hickey, bypass vintrepeneur, and come up with vinitor. His varied background, including 10 years as head sommelier at some of the best New York restaurants, then a further 10 years of baking, brewing and travelling to the best-known wine regions of the world, may provide some clue. More tangibly, he planted 4ha of shiraz, 2ha of cabernet sauvignon, and recently grafted 1ha of shiraz to nero dAvola on his Omensetter Vineyard looking over the Willunga Escarpment and on to the Gulf of St Vincent. JAMES HALLIDAY