Biondi Santi Brunello 2018

Deeper, darker and more sensual than the Annata, the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva entices with a whiff of lavender and sage before giving way to dried cherry, cedar dust, worn leather and spice. It's surprisingly lifted and finessed, with a salty core of savory minerals to offset its ripe wild berry fruits. A jolt of stimulating acidity maintains harmony throughout. It finishes with admirable length and a saline character, leaving hints of licorice that fade slowly. Despite the growing season, the 2018 comes across as a classic in the making, showing the structure and balance required throughout to promote cellaring. Sadly, production totaled only 8,000 bottles (97+)  ERIC GUIDO

The 2018 Biondi Santi Brunello shows the winery’s hallmark finesse that French investment group EPI, owners of the historic estate since 2017, have scrupulously preserved thanks to the passion and determination of a great on-site team. It also shows the finesse of the vintage, starting with its heady aromas of wild rose, dark spice, forest berry and eucalyptus. It’s refined and linear, delivering juicy red cherry, star anise and hints of dried herb that dance across the palate before closing on a note of bitter orange. Bright acidity and taut, refined tannins provide balance and polished support. Showing youthful tension, this will age well for years. Drink 2028–2038 (98) KERIN O'KEEFE